AHGA GMU
George Mason University, History and Art History, Graduate Student
India has a long, well-documented jewelry history that arguably reached its pinnacle under the Mughal emperors during the early modern period. Turkey also has a significant tradition in the jeweled arts from the same period while under... more
India has a long, well-documented jewelry history that arguably reached its pinnacle under the Mughal emperors during the early modern period. Turkey also has a significant tradition in the jeweled arts from the same period while under Ottoman rule, but this has been significantly understudied. This paper is an attempt to begin to correct that oversight by using what is known about Mughal jewelry history to inform Ottoman jewelry history. The Ottomans and the Mughals shared many types, styles, and materials in the construction of their jewelry. Key differences have to do with a greater variety of gem types used in Ottoman as compared to Mughal jewelry. The setting of gemstones also varied between the two Empires, with the Ottomans favoring collets as opposed to the uniquely Indian kundan technique. Emperors at both courts enjoyed using jewelry to convey their wealth, power and status. Differences between the Mughals and Ottomans seem to be associated with the Mughals’ blending of the Islamic and Hindu jewelry traditions. Certain types of jewels were reserved for royalty and courtiers at both courts, including turban ornaments, thumb rings, and belts. Diplomatic and trade links between the two Empires are revealed through gift giving involving such items. Overall, the comparison serves to help to clarify the nature of the Ottoman jewelry tradition and to reveal that it is just as colorful, rich, and multi-faceted as its better known, south Asian counterpart.
Research Interests:
The Sixteenth century saw great change in the relationship between European nations and Ottoman Empire that rested on their Eastern borders. Through the study of the prints and travel guides of the Sixteenth century, the shift in opinions... more
The Sixteenth century saw great change in the relationship between European nations and Ottoman Empire that rested on their Eastern borders. Through the study of the prints and travel guides of the Sixteenth century, the shift in opinions of the Ottomans can be traced from Muslim invaders to an erotic fantasy. Beginning with the example of Dürer, whose prints showcase the flawed and biased image of the Turk present in Europe, the effects of conquest and military conflict with the eastern European nations are apparent. However, throughout the century following Dürer's work the importance of trade with the Ottomans replaced the military fears in many European nations. The travel guides and prints of artists from various nations during the Sixteenth century showcase the shift in opinion of the Ottomans through their presentation of more direct and accurate images of the Ottoman people beyond their military. All of these images contribute to the culmination of images of the peoples of the Levant in Orientalism in the Eighteenth century.