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Dearth in Venice as developer pulls plug on Grand Hôtel des Bains

Hotel immortalised in Thomas Mann novel – which quietly closed several months ago – to reopen as luxury apartment complex

The Grand Hôtel des Bains, circa 1920, in Venice
The Grand Hôtel des Bains, circa 1920. Photograph: Neil Lang Archive/Alamy

It was one of the most elegant hotels in the world, the setting for Thomas Mann's Death in Venice and the residence of choice for Hollywood stars from Clark Gable to Keira Knightley. But Venice Lido's Grand Hôtel des Bains is no more after quietly closing its doors several months ago – to be reopened as a luxury apartment complex next year.

The news will upset cinephiles and art lovers the world over, and for ever change the face of the Venice film festival, which is held nearby.

Andrea Martini, film critic and professor of cinema theory at Siena University, who stayed at the hotel for 22 years in a row while covering the festival, is devastated by the news. "I always got room 422, one of the old rooms, still with parquet and art nouveau furniture, with a little terrace overlooking the sea. The bedsheets were in white linen; it was so worn out, you could see through it."

He is angry at the city for not doing more to preserve it. "I'm in mourning," he said. "It may look frivolous at first, but it is actually a very serious matter. Somebody at the Venice town hall is at fault for not preserving what is an international and historical treasure."

Its new owners say the hotel will be entirely renovated and restructured, and will open in late 2011 as the Des Bains residences, a complex of apartments, some for sale and some for rent.

Cristina Fossati, of Est Capital, the real estate fund that bought the hotel in 2008, says the renovation will benefit Venice and the lido: "Est Capital's Real Venice real estate fund is renovating the town's entire 2.2km sea promenade," she said.

The Hôtel des Bains is not the city's only historic public building to be transformed in this way. The huge old Al Mare hospital, as well as three palazzi in the centre of Venice, have been sold to Est Capital.

With an ever-shrinking population and fewer taxpayers, city authorities say they cannot afford to maintain their own historic buildings, let alone step in to rescue private ones. "The municipality chose not to intervene," said an employee from the mayor's office who asked not to be named. "The hotel has always been in private hands. At least the listed reception rooms will remain intact."

Director Stephen Frears, who stayed at the Des Bains in 2006 when he won the festival critics' prize for The Queen, said the sale represented the end of an era. "I'm only glad that Dirk Bogarde isn't alive to have seen this," he said.


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  • Frites Frites

    23 Jul 2010, 3:09AM

    This comment has been removed by a moderator. Replies may also be deleted.
  • RoseTinted RoseTinted

    23 Jul 2010, 8:06AM

    I have never understood economics. Venice is one of the number one holiday destinations is it not? The rich staying at this hotel was not enough? How does one reconcile the fact that inhabitants are leaving because tourism is making it unbearable and unworkable. If the authorities can't afford to renovate or repair buildings, what is to become of this fabulous city?

  • bessaboi bessaboi

    23 Jul 2010, 10:11AM

    It is sad to see an emblem of the past like the hotel disappear, but it is an emblem of a former time, The building's exterior is still intact, just the interior changing from temporary to more permanent living. Something I didn't read was if Est Capital bought the stretch of beach as well.

    I have just returned from Venice (under normal circumstances I prefer not to travel there in the summer) and I can understand why the locals are fleeing the city.

    The city of Venice is becoming / has become (take your pick) a museum in itself. However that museum is mainly restricted to the Piazza San Marco and the top of Rialto bridge looking down the Grand Canal and the ghastly tourist knick-knack shops in between. The hotels seem less full as Venice is not a cheap place to stay and it is a day trip destination (such as the vast numbers of "coach trippers", lined up for a gondola ride at the Bassino Orseolo).

    However, in other parts of the city people still talk to each other from their windows across courtyards, hang out their washing (the scent of freshly laundered cloths is wonderful!) and many churches, other than the Basilica, contain some magnificent works of art. Get a chorus card for 10 Euros and see as many of the 18 or so churches in the group.

    I spent most of one morning in Santa Maria del Orto, Sant Alvise and San Giobbe, allnot so far from Zanipolo or the railway station. Apart from a group of touring Germans with guide (probably on an art trip) these churches were quite empty.

    With Jan Morris as your guide to the spirit of the past (not necessarily so distant) and Paolo Giordoni's 30 walks of Venice - a heavy book and badly translated in places, but it takes you away from the main drag (I was even shown the lovely courtyard by a resident of one building) - you will get to see and explore the city deeper.

    Venice is the past, like it or not (just as is the U.K.) the dead centre of a dead empire. I am in two minds as to whether La Fenice should have been rebuilt as a copy of the past or as a new 21st century opera house. It's not the first building in Venice to have been destroyed by fire and rebuilt, or more accurately, built over. By taking the former course the city decided it would continue to be a living (but dying) museum city.

    Venice should be for Venetians. Food still is grown on islands in and fished from the lagoon. The sea food is appetising, either in the market or in good restaurants, and makes it hard for me to become either a true vegetarian or vegan!

  • JAnthony JAnthony

    23 Jul 2010, 10:31AM

    The application of planning laws is key. The hotel was clearly run-down and no hotel investor willing or able to buy and refurbish it. There is no reason, though, that the authorities could not have insisted on a hybrid or mixed-use solution: the developers can only sell apartments if they maintain a part of the whole as a hotel, or insist that owners make their apartments available for rental on the open market when not in residence. Apartments in this locaiton may well end up as largely-vacant second homes, which would be doubly bad for the area. And the authorities need also to have insisted on some 'planning gain' from the developers, financing affordable homes for local residents and workers. Ski resorts and other tourism-intensive locations are well-used to dealing with these questions, though it does require that the local planning system is not corrupted...

  • ramekins ramekins

    23 Jul 2010, 1:05PM

    what is to become of this fabulous city?

    who cares, we live in a capitalist society, if it does not make money, (it was built on money, trading, slavery etc) it dies. Look at Detroit.

  • VforVintage VforVintage

    23 Jul 2010, 2:01PM

    Venice is my favourite city. I care what happens to it. It is such a wonderful place that all tourists should pay a £10 entrance fee for its up keep. The entire City is a work of art, and looks wonderful regardless of the season. If someone would offer me a job just sweeping its pavements I could die a happy ciffer. Its also a test for a persons spirit. If you think it is a glorious place, you pass the test. If you think its old and smells, you are a tasteless miserable git. VENICE FOR THE VENETIANS. And ME.

  • Frites Frites

    23 Jul 2010, 3:44PM

    I take issue with the fact that my posting was deleted by the nameless moderator.

    All I was saying is that the apartment complex will, in all likelihood, be gobbled up by nouveau-riche expats who, in my experience, tend to come from two particular countries. You know, the billionaires from away who seem to prefer NOT to live in the countries in which they have made their extreme wealth (either by plundering the environment and greedily gobbling up natural resources; or by creating vast factories for the world's junk).

    And then I went on to say that, luckily at least for me, it may mean that a few less of these billionaires will choose to settle in Vancouver - another "desirable" locale for the world's uber-rich from you-know-where who gobble up houses, inflate real estate prices and effectively force ordinary citizens out of the their own city?

    Although this is apparently offensive to the Guardian, it is much more so to me and to others like me who have seen their standard of living plummet in cities they can no longer afford to live in.

  • calmeilles calmeilles

    23 Jul 2010, 3:58PM

    Venice should be for Venetians.

    The tourists having become the source of income for the city has priced the Venetians out of their own city. Not just apartment rents but also jobs as fewer and fewer exist outside the tourism sector, the life of the city disappears.

    I haven't a fix to offer, not astonishing as minds much cleverer than mine haven't come up with one either.

  • bessaboi bessaboi

    23 Jul 2010, 7:56PM

    @calmeilles

    I did write "Venice should be for Venetians". Each city should be for its own people (I speak as a Gloucester emigré living in London!) but sadly, in this modern world, such is not the case. Sadly buildings that have been refurbished are not being turned into residences. A palazo on the Grand Canal near the Salute has become a hotel - looking for all the world a swanky place for swanky bankers who have wrought so much ill in this world. Reviving the tradition of a few (bankers') corpses apperaing between the pillars on the piazetta might be in order here (to the moderator - that is a tongue in cheek remark, I do not suggest that as a real solution, but, what the hell, they deserve something ignominious).

    Those who work in Venice, not just in tourism but also shopkeepers of non-tourist industries, seem to live outside it. The downside of tourism is evinced by sellers of glass goods warning shoppers not to buy chinese imitations. If Murano dies what next?

    The resident population does seem to be old, younger residents seem to be students. There is frightening gap between teens/20 somethings and the "mature" population.

    We spend a lot of our consciences on preventing Venice sinking into the waters rather than preventing its demise as a living city. Like VforVintage being a street cleaner would seem an acceptable way of life. To judge from their faces, cleaners are from the Veneto at the very least, so, VforVintage you might find it hard to get a job there!

    At present there are ethnic Chinese and people from the Indian sub-continent filling mainly tourist restaurants (I exclude the street handbag sellers for obvious reasons - they are, in any case, a plague in other parts of Italy). We cannot halt this change. The world belongs to us all, it is our home. Those of us who do not wield any power or influence can only bemoan our lot, but if you ever go to Venice listen out for the distinctive Venetian pronunciation of "ciao" and spend your money in those businesses.

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