City overview
Legend has it that the Prophet Muhammed looked down on Damascus from Jebel Qassioun, the mountain to the northwest of the city, and refused to descend, saying that man could only enter the gates of Paradise once. These days you can take a taxi up to Jebel Qassioun for a few pounds. Of course, modern Damascus has grown - its sprawling suburbs swallowing up many of the old orchards and gardens. But sit in one of the cafes on the hill and drink mint tea as night falls. Then the city begins to twinkle with dots of emerald green light emanating from the mosques.
Relics of the past
Along with Byblos and Jericho, Damascus claims to be the oldest continuously inhabited city in the world. The Old City, now a Unesco World Heritage Site, has apparently changed very little in the past two millennia and is still surrounded by walls built by the Greeks and Romans. My tip is to enter the Old City via the Souk Al-Hamadiye entrance - this gives you a view of the medieval citadel added by the Seljuks in the 11th and 12th centuries, and is by far the grandest entrance into the old city.
Inside, winding paths lead you into a tangle of back lanes, but the cobbled Straight Street – an aptly named Roman road that cuts through the middle – is always just a few streets away so it's easy not to get lost.
The Great Umayyad Mosque, "the first monumental work of architecture in Islamic history", is the star of the Old City. You have to dress modestly to enter - no surprise there - they even hire out special beige modesty robes in the form of ankle-length hooded cloaks. The mosque is right in the centre, but the walls are thick and the sounds of the souk drop away the moment you step inside. The entrance leads to a vast courtyard, with columns and arches and green and gold mosaics from the Umayyads on the walls. The mosque was originally built as a cathedral and features Byzantine architecture, as well as the tomb of John the Baptist - a saint to Christians and a prophet to Muslims.
Shop, drop and eat
Stepping through the Souk Al-Hamadiye entrance into the covered market provides instant relief from the heat. The arched roof is unusually tall, and dotted with holes that let in shafts of light. There are several good no-frills cafes near the entrance offering thick Turkish-style coffee and ice cream parlours such as Bakdash, which has been making "bouza arabiyah" ice-cream since 1890. As Syria's oldest ice-cream parlour, it is always overflowing, as visitors and tourists stop by for the house special - rosewater and almond flavored ice-cream, topped with fresh pistachio nuts.
The souk is full of staples such as colourful textiles, silk rugs, spices, perfumes, Syrian sweets (which are similar to Lebanese and Turkish ones) and soaps from Aleppo. My favourite place in the souk is the Khan As'ad Pasha. It's one of 18 surviving khans – or warehouses - built in the mid 18th century, and this one is particularly attractive with black and white stonework and elegant domes and arches built around a central courtyard.
A great way to unwind after a hot, dusty day in the souk is a visit to a hammam - one of the highlights of any trip to Damascus. Avoid the over-priced hotel hammams and head for the local bath houses, which are better value and come with a side order of intense cultural immersion. For less than £10 an attendant will scrub you cleaner than you've ever been and massage you with oil. The hammam is an important ritual for almost every Syrian Muslim – as a woman it's also a rare chance get a peek at life beyond the veil. In the Old City, the main men's hammam is a beautiful, grand establishment in the souk, while the main women's hammam is in a side street off Bab Touma.
Eating in Damascus needn't be a pricey affair - at Leila's Restaurant or Beit Jabri (in one of the oldest houses in Damascus near the Great Umayyad mosque) you can feast on grilled meats, falafel, tabbouleh, hummus and pitta bread for less than £10 per head. Being a Muslim country, not all establishments serve alcohol but you can always go local and wind down over apple, rose petal or butterscotch-scented water pipe at cafes such as An-Nafura Coffee House near the Great Umayyad Mosque.
Modern art and boutique hotels
Damascus isn't all ancient history - it also has a thriving contemporary art and music scene. This year has been particularly active, with the city hosting events from art exhibitions to Arab hip hop as part of its designation as Arabic City of Culture.
The Jewish quarter in Old Damascus has in recent years emerged as something of an artistic hub, with artists creating studios in many of the dilapidated buildings. Mustafa Ali's Gallery hosts visiting exhibitions as well as the artist's own sculptures.
Another place to check out is the Art House in a converted stone mill in Mezzah, west Damascus (it's also a boutique hotel - if you have the budget), which has regular contemporary art exhibitions and concerts. Since the owner is an artist and he has an open door policy for all his friends, there are plenty of spontaneous music sessions on the baby grand piano.
Other accommodation options are traditional Arab courtyard houses that have been lovingly restored and converted into hotels. However, since they are reasonably rare they don't tend to be cheap. Talisman in the Old City is typical at $200, featuring 17 traditionally styled rooms with all the mod cons such as free wi-fi built around a central courtyard with a swimming pool and greenery. If your budget doesn't stretch that far you could try Al Haramein close to the National Museum and the Old City – the style and price is more backpacker but you get the authentic experience of staying in an old Damascus courtyard house.
Getting there
BMI flies direct to Damascus from £320 return. For the latest travel advice on Syria, visit the FCO website