Whether you’re a watch aficionado or on day one of a new fascination, you'll be able to name some of the seasoned kingpins that have become the world’s most established watch brands, built on centuries of expertise.
And while that tradition carries prestige, watchmaking is also a craft obsessed with newness. New models are brought to life every week with fresh updates, modified movements and overhauled designs. And there are plenty of new watch brands cropping up too, keen to shake up the industry for the next generation and score a spot at the top of your grail list. Say hello to the class of tomorrow.
Anoma
A proper newcomer to the game, Anoma wants to set the tone a little differently. “With no formal training in watchmaking or design, I appreciate the value of different backgrounds, perspectives and approaches when it comes to watchmaking,” shares founder Matteo Violet-Vianello, who cut his teeth by disassembling vintage watches found at the back of a drawer. He launched the Anoma A1 just this month, and is determined to tinker with the rulebook. “Watchmaking so often plays by the same rules,” says Violet-Vianello. “We’re used to seeing the same models, complications and design choices, time and time again. Anoma embodies a more experimental and daring vision of watch design, breaking free from traditional constraints.”
Inspired by the design approaches of Cartier London in the ’60s and early ’70s and the spirit of experimentation in Audemars Piguet’s archive 5182 model, Anoma challenges the sculptural form of a traditional watch, taking design notes from Charlotte Perriand's influential late-’50s freeform table. It’s not a square, it's not a circle; but a means to change your perspective on what a watch can and should look like.
Citing modern-day names like De Bethune, Urwerk and Daniel Roth, Anoma’s love story with design fuses together worlds outside of pure watchmaking, creating a watch that, at its core, celebrates architecture, furniture and sculpture. “I saw an opportunity to infuse the bold creativity from these other areas into watch design, with the aim of creating something different,” explains Violet-Vianello. “This is how Anoma was born.”
Furlan Marri
Three years since Andrea Furlan and Hamad Al Marri decided to launch Furlan Marri on Kickstarter, the brand has gone from newborn baby to cult favourite. Striving for a neat vintage aesthetic complemented by modern standards, the duo delight in “creating watches that are inspired by the greatest stories of the ’40s and ’50s with an extreme care for details and high finish.” Furlan Marri’s biggest draw is its commitment to tasteful grails at affordable prices, combining details and finishes more identifiable at the top of the market.
With Furlan’s high-end watchmaking skills and Al Marri’s collector experience and artistic eye, it makes sense their watches pay homage to icons past – in particular the design codes of the untouchable Patek Philippes. Unsurprisingly Al Marri’s eye for grails sits firmly with the likes of Francois Borgel, a master casemaker who had a seminal role in creating Patek’s first waterproof watches. If you’re a sucker for all things nostalgia, and know that a PP might not be on your bingo card for this year, then Furlan Marri is a strong place to start.
Fleming
“A Fleming piece is designed and crafted to become a vessel for emotions and memories because we, more than anything else, try to make our watches ideal companions to the lives of their wearers,” shares 26-year-old Thomas Fleming, who debuted his watch brand last year. Crafting the Series 1 model in three versions – rose gold, tantalum and platinum – Fleming prioritises basic geometry and the often overlooked midcase, with the addition of rarely-seen skeletonised lugs.
“We are not beholden to history that creates expectations of what we should make; investors that have differing ideas of how we should operate and who are ultimately just focused on making the biggest return; or even retailers that eat into a margin that could otherwise be used to make better watches,” says Fleming. Taking inspiration from architecture and nature, he prioritises comfort and versatility in its watches: the founder has an RM 27-01 Nadal and a Patek Philippe 5004 on his grail list for their understated complexity.
The brand's debut wasn’t without challenges. “The mandate of simplicity means that the only levers to pull are in the details, and any detail that is not executed well or coherent with all others sticks out like a sore thumb and compromises the design as a whole,” says Fleming. “There’s nowhere to hide and no complications to distract the wearer.”
Biver
You’re probably familiar with the work of Jean-Claude Biver, who made Hublot the provocative icon that it is while amplifying the roar of the engine in the automotive-inspired world of TAG Heuer. But have you been introduced to Biver Jr? With a behemoth legacy to continue, 24-year-old Pierre Biver has his sights set high with father-son brand Biver watches. “I play the role of a conductor,” shares Biver. “I ensure that my father’s and my vision are realised in the best possible way.”
Inspired by the patrimony of Patek Philippe (which he was able to experience from a young age), Biver takes great influence from Patek's artistry – models 2523 and 3448, to be exact. Creating unique pieces and implementing natural stones in the dials – something not typically seen with modern Pateks – Biver has stepped onto the scene, bright-eyed and enthusiastic, but not without knowing the climb ahead. “There are many leaders amongst the so-called ‘new generation’ and I am still very much inspired by them,” says Pierre. “Nevertheless, to me, it’s about embracing a deep responsibility to preserve the rich history and craftsmanship of watchmaking while fostering innovation and creativity. Guiding and supporting young talent is crucial to ensure the future vitality and evolution of the watchmaking industry.”
Remy Cools
Remy Cools lives life by the motto Evolve, Don’t Repeat. An influential trip to a manufacturer at 11 meant a childhood spent devouring books and sourcing gems in flea markets, and in 2020, Cools turned his passion into a debut product, the Tourbillon Souscription, followed by the Tourbillon Atelier in 2023. “I’ve always wanted to create my own watches with design and quality,” says Cools. “[Much of] my inspiration is fuelled by my passion for 18th and 19th century French watchmaking, like [Robert] Robin, [Ferdinand] Berthoud and [Jean-Francois-Henri] Motel.”
Producing 12 pieces each year, the up-and-coming watchmaker wants to put beauty back on top, noting that “it’s quality and precision [that] creates beauty, and that’s the most important thing.” Committed to keeping the reputation of watchmakers alive and kicking, Cools joins the assembly of next-gen thinkers who plan to take the watch industry to new heights – and new wrists: “I'm really happy and proud to be part of the new generation of independent watchmakers,” says Cools. “It's very motivating.”