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Wednesday, March 8, 2017

Food

The exterior of Fowler & Wells, Tom Colicchio’s restaurant in the Beekman hotel. Signing up a known chef “allows the hotel instant recognition,” Mario Batali said.
Francesco Sapienza for The New York Times

The exterior of Fowler & Wells, Tom Colicchio’s restaurant in the Beekman hotel. Signing up a known chef “allows the hotel instant recognition,” Mario Batali said.

The arrangement is on the rise in New York, offering benefits for both sides.

The Bright Magic of Citrus in the Baking Pan

The scent and taste of lemon evoke powerful memories of childhood summers in Italy.

What if You Could Make Great Corned Beef?

Banish the memory of the fare from Irish pubs and school cafeterias in favor of meat that is ruddy pink and salty and meltingly sweet.

The Pour

Want to Pick Better Bottles? Repeat After Me: Wine Is Food

Thinking about what you drink as carefully as you do about what you eat can lead to much better bottles on the table.

Alinea Group of Chicago Opening Cocktail Lounges in New York

The Aviary and the Office will move into the Mandarin Oriental New York on Columbus Circle.

Bird Flu Outbreak Found at a Tennessee Farm

An outbreak at a farm that produces chickens for Tyson Foods has led the U.S.D.A. to establish a quarantine on farms around the area.

A Good Appetite

How Cooking Dinner Can Be a Dance

Once you get in the groove, preparing the day’s final meal can morph from a formidable chore into a delight.

Off the Menu

Hand Rolls With Los Angeles Roots Find a Place in NoMad

Danny Meyer plans for 2022, BrisketTown in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, closes, and other restaurant news.

City Kitchen

A Relative of Couscous Finds a Wider Fan Base

With roots in Tunisian and Sardinian cooking, fregola has become an attractive ingredient for American cooks, especially among chefs.

Hungry City

A Different Kind of Alexandria Library, at Little Egypt

A restaurant in Ridgewood, Queens, features shelves of groceries, a shrine to Egyptian history and fish from a chef who once worked by the docks.

Four & Twenty Blackbirds Pie Shop Opens New Brooklyn Location

Its second free-standing store offers beer and wine and new pie varieties in Prospect Heights.

The Joy of Cooking With Food Scraps

A new book from the Danish chef Mads Refslund offers practical advice for making the most out of your kitchen food waste.

In Lower Manhattan, a Museum Dedicated to Chocolate

Choco-Story New York tells the history of chocolate at Jacques Torres’s flagship store.

Elegant Flavors Packed in a Square Inch

Petits fours make a comeback at the Bon Vivant New York Cake Café on the Upper East Side.

A Sleek Tool for the Design-Minded Bartender

This combination juicer and muddler from Alessi is a powerful cocktail-making companion.

Tzatziki, Skordalia and Other Greek Dips Bring the Taverna Home

The chef and restaurateur Maria Loi has introduced a new line of jarred specialties from her homeland.

Restaurants and News
Cereals made by Back to the Roots that are now part of New York City’s free-breakfast program in schools.
Jim Wilson/The New York Times

Cereals made by Back to the Roots that are now part of New York City’s free-breakfast program in schools.

In a bite-size coup that could spread to other cities, a California upstart has replaced Kellogg products in the city’s free-breakfast program.

Looking for a Trump Doctrine in the White House Kitchen

The Obamas put food front and center, but the Trumps have yet to signal just how they will eat, entertain or set an example.

Danny Meyer Plans Restaurant High Above Financial District

Union Square Hospitality Group will run a restaurant and rooms for private events at the top of the former One Chase Manhattan Plaza, now known as 28 Liberty.

Stressed by Success, a Top Restaurant Turns to Therapy

A psychologist goes to El Celler de Can Roca, a fine-dining restaurant in Spain, each week to help employees cope with their high-tension jobs.

Noma’s New Co-Owner Is No Stranger to Getting His Hands Dirty

Ali Sonko, a Gambian who washed dishes at the Michelin-starred restaurant in Denmark for 14 years, instantly became a symbol of immigrant success.

How Dominique Ansel, Inventor of the Cronut, Spends His Sundays

The pastry chef tours new neighborhoods in his bakery’s minivan and finds time to hone his Taiwanese cooking skills.

Tables for Snooker and Bhutanese Food at Weekender Billiard

A restaurant in Woodside, Queens, trades in the keyed-up spicing of the Himalayas.

Q&A;

The Secret to a Really Crisp Apple

Differences in cell walls result in some apples being mealy and some being magnificent.

At This Staten Island Restaurant, a Kitchen Run by Grandmas

A rotating roster of women from diverse backgrounds share their culinary heritages at Enoteca Maria in the St. George neighborhood.

Off the Menu

Villanelle, Serving Vegetable-Forward Fare, Opens in the East Village

The latest from the Cipriani family, a bar adjacent to the Meatball Shop in Hell’s Kitchen, and other restaurant news.

Nonfiction

‘Food Fights and Culture Wars: A Secret History of Taste’

In “Food Fights and Culture Wars,” Tom Nealon presents a lavishly illustrated look at the impact of historical forces on cuisine.

A Mediterranean Escape on the Upper East Side

Korali, with its fresh seafood, Greek olive oil, airy décor and cheerful customer base, makes for the perfect ode to a taverna.

Restaurant Review

Sahib, in Curry Hill, Lets You Eat All Over India

The menu darts from Kashmir to South India and beyond at the newest restaurant from the prolific Hemant Mathur (with help from Shiva Natarajan).

The New Age of Traditional Mexican Mole

The country’s top chefs are reinventing the complex sauce — 10, 20, even 30 ingredients at a time.

One of Atlanta’s Last Stores on Wheels Navigates a World of Change

The “stores” — trucks that sell snacks and small grocery items — used to hum through areas near public housing. But they’re an increasingly rare sight.

Cooking

Done well, this American classic can be a perfect dish: big-tasting, filling, nutritious and very easy to make.

Utica Greens: A Central New York Staple With Multiple Identities

Tracing the origins of an Italian-American dish beloved in the central part of the state, but not much beyond.

City Kitchen

A Croque-Madame Dressed Up With Crab

Add fresh crab meat to this French cafe classic, a hot ham and cheese sandwich adorned with an egg.

A Good Appetite

A Vegetable Tart, but Nothing Too Dainty

This roasted mushroom and butternut squash tart, loaded with cheese on a whole-grain crust, is more rustic than refined, and better for it.

Eat

A Caramelized Cabbage Casserole to Get You to Spring

Bare farmers’ markets in early March can leave home cooks adrift, but this sweet and savory Swedish dish can get you past the hump.

A Good Appetite

For Maximum Crunch (and Convenience), Pull Out Your Sheet Pan

This spicy pasta with roasted broccoli, ricotta and a crisp bread-crumb topping comes together quickly.

The Waldorf Is Closing, but Its Salad Lives On

The Manhattan hotel, which will shut its doors temporarily for renovations starting next month, gave rise to a dish that has made an indelible mark on American menus.

City Kitchen

A Skinnier Pork Chop, and a Juicier Dinner

Double-thick pork chops may sound good and look impressive, but they often turn out dry.

City Kitchen

Pastry for Those Who Prefer Savory to Sweet

If you have an hour and a box of phyllo dough, make a borek, a Turkish hand pie with a lamb and feta filling.

A Good Appetite

This Sauce Makes Everything Taste Better

Melt butter. Add garlic, lemon, herbs and spices. Then pour it over whatever you’d like.

Flames Fuel the Flavor in a Blood Orange Dessert

Seasonal citrus gets a turbocharge from a torch and a mint garnish courtesy of Augustine, Keith McNally’s new restaurant.

Drinks
From left, D. Ventura Ribeira Sacra Viña Caneiro, Décima Ribeira Sacra 2014 and Guímaro Ribeira Sacra Tinto 2015.
William P. O'Donnell/The New York Times

From left, D. Ventura Ribeira Sacra Viña Caneiro, Décima Ribeira Sacra 2014 and Guímaro Ribeira Sacra Tinto 2015.

These reds from the Galicia region of northwestern Spain are both ancient and strikingly modern.

Cocktail Bartenders Reveal Where They Like to Drink

You trust them with your cocktail, so why not take some travel advice from the new book “Where Bartenders Drink,” and follow them to their favorite off-hours bars.

Neon-Blue Wine Gives Spanish Start-Up a Regulatory Headache

A company called Gïk said it was forced to remove “blue wine” from its labels and tweak its drink after being fined for violating wine regulations.

Wine School

The Transporting Pleasures of Red Bandol

Many wines may share certain characteristics, but few are as distinctive as this burly red from Provence.

Airlines Aim to Trick Your Taste Buds at 30,000 Feet

A Hong Kong carrier has introduced a beer brewed to taste good at high altitudes, since noise, dry air and plastic cutlery affect our sense of taste.

Q. and A.

At Fort Lauderdale’s Mai-Kai, It’s Always Tiki Time

David Levy, who runs the enduring Mai-Kai, talks about its stage show, the annual festival called the Hukilau, and famous drinks like the rum barrel.

Cooking Guides
The Basics of Wine

Learn how to talk about wine, pair it with food, order it at a restaurant and more.

Featured Recipes
Eggs Benedict
Irish Tacos
Omelet
Utica Greens
Pad Thai
Enchantress
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How-To Videos
Cooking Techniques

A library of more than 50 videos demonstrating simple skills that home cooks should master.

Find your favorite recipes on our Pinterest boards.

Best of 2016
Restaurant Review
Top New York Restaurants of 2016

Our critic counts down his favorites among the new places he reviewed this year.

The Most-Read Food Stories of 2016

These are the articles and columns that Food section readers found most compelling in 2016.

Culinary Travel
Bites
In Portland, Middle Eastern Flavors Meet a California Vibe

Tusk is a showcase for local Oregon ingredients viewed through a Middle Eastern lens.

Bites
A Warm and Gooey Dish Steps Up in Zurich

At Raclette Factory, the namesake cheese is offered in new ways amid a casual setting.

Heads Up
Humble Magic in Georgian Capital’s Restaurant Renaissance

Culinary fever is spreading in Tbilisi, with post-Soviet restaurants dusting off their cookie-cutter menus and focusing on all things organic.

Follow Dining

NYT Cooking Newsletter

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