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Papaya King's L.A. Debut Nears; Ken Friedman Plans His Own Westward Move

Papaya King is gearing up for its big Hollywood premiere: Eater hears that the opening will come sometime in the middle of 2011 on Hollywood Blvd. We already get the feeling this will be more like our cleaned-up Malibu version of Cafe Habana than the grimy Manhattan Papaya King — the expansion comes under the management of L.A. nightlife honcho Sam Nazarian and his company SBE. In addition to L.A., SBE is hoping to spring future Papaya Kings on Nevada, Arizona, and Miami. And just in case Angelenos don't already have a taste for the legendary pairing of hot dogs and fruit juice, the company will introduce a Papaya King food truck in April and May to give the things away. But we're wondering: Is all this NYC hot dog action what's prompting New York's Ken Freidman to talk about his own move to La-La Land?

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Riverpark Begins Brunch Service; Best Sommelier Competition this Weekend

Bedford-Stuyvesant: BK Farmyards' Chicken Workshop series starts tomorrow with free workshops on keeping chickens in the city, at Fort Hen in Imani Garden on Dean Street and Schenectady. [Grub Street]
East Village: Sean Scotese and Mike Hill are throwing three more Hot Pot Parties at Je'Bon to promote their new restaurant, Ghost Street. Tomorrow night, April 28, and May 12, a $15 cover buys passed hot-pot skewers, desserts, and sake from 8 p.m. to midnight. [Grub Street]
Astor president Andrew Fisher will teach an advanced wine and food pairing class on April 27 from 6:30 to 8:30 p.m. at the Astor Center. Tickets are $75. [Grub Street]

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Quirarte and Kliegman Cleared for Westway; Carbone and Torrisi Stumble on Parm

Eater hears that Carlos Quirarte and Matt Kliegman’s West Village club, Westway, just got the State Liquor Authority’s approval for a license after much community quibbling and will open in mid-May. Not as lucky were another team, Mario Carbone and Rich Torrisi. At last night’s Community Board 2 licensing-committee meeting, Carbone pled his case for a liquor license at his forthcoming concept Parm. Among other things, neighbors were concerned that the planned to-go window would cause congestion and voted not to support the application. In a separate post, Eater also has news about Kyo, a locally and sustainably minded Southeast Asian concept Marc Forgione will bring to 265 Elizabeth Street. The committee put off a decision about that, but weighed in on Corkbuzz, Gonzalez y Gonzalez, and an Asian-fusion concept from the owner of Caliente Cab Co.

CB2 Denies Gonzalez y Gonzalez, Approves Corkbuzz [Eater NY]
Community Board 2 Drops Hammer on Torrisi Spinoff Parm [Eater NY]
Westway Approved By SLA, Plans May Opening [Eater NY]

Guest Bartenders and Pop-up Chefs

Both Flavorwire and Zagat Buzz have extensive rundowns of the current crop of pop-up restaurants (everything from JBF LTD to LTO!); meanwhile, Metromix takes a look at five bars that let you pour for your friends. [Flavorwire, Zagat Buzz, Metromix]

Gorilla Cheese Man Will ‘Hit the City With a Storm’ Next Month

Other than the website that went live last month, Gorilla Cheese has been somewhat of a mystery, but now the owner, James Klayman, steps forward to tell us that (pending an upcoming city inspection) he plans to launch the grilled-cheese truck on May 2. Klayman is a Long Island native who worked in restaurants as everything from a fry cook to a sous-chef before becoming a real-estate broker. He was inspired to open a food truck when he witnessed Kogi hysteria during a trip to Los Angeles, and L.A.’s Grilled Cheese Truck convinced him that grilled cheeses were the way to go. “I’ve always been a comfort-food guy,” he tells us. “And I’ve always been a big mac-and-cheese person. Throughout college, people used to come over to my apartment and say, ‘Cook me a grilled cheese.’”

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P&H; Plans to Sell Sodas on the Beach This Summer

Anton Nocito of P&H; Soda Co. tells us that if all goes according to plan, he’ll be among the beach vendors this summer when Rockaway Taco and friends take over Rockaway Beach’s boardwalk concessions. While he also weighs the possibilities of returning to the New Amsterdam Market and the Hester Street Fair, he’s speaking to Workman Cycles about creating a cart that will be equipped with a pony keg and soda tap (the company has been making such carts for over a century). The cart will peddle the usual flavors as well as seasonal varieties like cherry and lemon verbena, and perhaps most exciting of all, there’ll be a new cola flavor, too.

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Yes, There Were a Bunch of Famous People at Last Night’s ‘Bon Appétit’ Party

Nothing in this photo is not skinny.

Last night at Minetta Tavern, everyone came out in style to celebrate Adam Rapoport’s first issue of Bon Appétit. While Rapoport beamed and mingled with David Chang, the Franks, Mario Carbone, Scott Conant, Daniel Boulud, and about every other chef in New York, we spoke to a few interesting guests who, for obvious reasons, wanted to talk food!

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Redbar Owners Will Open Little Red in Southampton

More news out of the Hamptons today: David Loewenberg and Kirk Basnight have just inked a deal to open a café called Little Red at 76 Jobs Lane in Southampton. A more casual version of their popular Southampton brasserie Redbar, it’ll serve everything from burgers and steak-frites to roast chicken and fresh fish along with an extensive wine list, including lots of half-bottles. ”Kirk and I have wanted to do a fun café like this for years,” says Loewenberg, who also owns the Beacon in Sag Harbor and Fresno in East Hampton. The pair plan to open the café in mid-June.

Tables Available at Dressler and the Lambs Club; Mostly Booked at Prune and Beauty & Essex

It's 4 p.m., and that means it's time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don't guarantee the results.) Today: Modern American.

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Bourdain and Andrés Enjoy 52 Courses at El Bulli, Cry a Little, and Tweet About It

Adria "hires" Bourdain for the night.

Last night, in the waning months of Ferran Adrià's El Bulli, Anthony Bourdain, chef José Andrés, and the crew of No Reservations documented one of Adrià's 52-course "last suppers" by photo, video, and Twitter. Bourdain proclaims, "I will never eat so well again," and "Half the dining room were in tears." Andrés got Adrià on-camera for about fourteen non-sequitur seconds, listened to an unidentified Asian man sing opera, and proclaimed "prople of america [sic] ! this show about el bulli will be one of the great tv shows ever ... " They ended the night with gin and tonics, sitting with Ferran, looking out at the ocean, feeling the "wind off the Pyrenees" before heading to bed. But that's not the end of it.

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Flex Mussels Gets a New Chef, Menu

We’re told that Flex Mussels executive chef Michael Bicocchi is out, and has been replaced by Michael Sullivan, who spent a decade as executive sous-chef at the late Chanterelle. Sullivan assumed his post for both locations last week, and in about another week he'll unveil his additions to the menu. Look for creative seafood riffs such as falafel with lobster and Sriracha tahini, or salt-cod hash with fried eggs, plus some new mussel preparations. There's also a lineup of "housemade specialties," including pastas and mozzarella — the better to leave interlopers in the dust, we suppose. Menu below.

See the lineup. »

What’s New at the Hester Street Fair This Year: Meatballs, Steamed Bao, and More

Photo: Courtesy of Hester Street Fair

Nobu at the Beach! Rockaway Taco at the beach! The return of ice pops! And now here’s some more bright and shiny news to get you through this soggy day: When the Hester Street Fair reopens next month, it’ll be more food focused than ever, with over half the market dedicated to grub. In fact, opening day (May 7, from 10 a.m. till 6 p.m.) is being dubbed the Lower Feast Side Food Festival. Along with thirteen returning food vendors, there’ll be fourteen new ones on Saturdays, including local restaurants like Fat Radish and Poco, plus the Fair is blocking off its Sundays for special food events and themed markets throughout the season, ending in October. Organizer Suchin Pak tells us she’s planning to add new vendors weekly: “We're hoping that Hester continues to be a testing ground for all these new food entrepreneurs looking to perfect their menus and find a passionate audience.” Here, then, are the new faces you can expect on opening day.

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This Year, Nobu Will Summer in the Hamptons

Richie Notar

After two years of searching for the right Hamptons spot, the Nobu team appears to have found a vacation home in Southampton at the Capri Hotel, which once housed the Pink Elephant. “I hope to have a deal signed this week,” co-owner Richie Notar tells us. Nobu at the Beach, as it will be called, will serve the restaurant's familiar favorites throughout the day and night. “It will be a little more relaxed — there might not be as much omakase,” says Notar, who also plans to offer catering (Nobu clambakes! sushi by the pool!). “I think it’s great because our customer base is there. It excites our staff and we found the right fit.”

Nate Smith Fixing ‘Sunday Suppers’ in Greenpoint

If you've been wondering what became of former Spotted Pig chef de cuisine Nate Smith after his brief stint at Dean Street, we have part of the answer. It seems every few Sundays, Smith has been cooking at a pop-up "Sunday Suppers" series at Greenpoint's Veronica Peoples Club. The toque has a meal coming up this Sunday night, and it's only $20, which includes a cocktail (see the menu below). Presumably there won't be any TVs playing while you eat.

Check out the menu. »

Pasta Porn: 101 of America’s Most Delicious Noodle Dishes

To say that pasta is experiencing a renaissance in America is, of course, an enormous understatement. A plate of spaghetti and meatballs has been an all-American (via Italy, via China) staple for as long as anyone can remember. But in the last few years, a handful of chefs — inspired, at least in part, by Mario Batali's continual march across every TV channel in the land, singing the praises of all things rustic and Italianate — have taken the basic tenets of a plate of pasta (noodles and sauce) and transformed them into the country's great refined comfort food. Yeah, we said it. Sorry, pizza and burgers: Even at your highest-end, you can't compare to the noodles being served at restaurants like Spiaggia, Marea, and Osteria Mozza.

The list, straight ahead. »

People’s Pops Returns to Chelsea Market, Gives Away Shave Ice

Last fall Tuck Shop replaced People's Pops in the Chelsea Market, but Nathalie Jordi tells us she and her partners will return to the market this Friday. From April till October, look for the stand made from pop sticks (and of course the big ol' block of ice) near the 15th Street entrance, by Jacques Torres and Lucy's Whey. Just like last year, the stand will celebrate its opening by giving away shave ice (normally $2.50) on Friday starting at 10 a.m. (last year, 150 pounds of ice disappeared in about five hours), or you can plunk down $3.50 for one of the pop flavors below. The farm-to-freezer enterprise will also return to the Brooklyn Flea (they were back on the scene last weekend), the Amsterdam Market, and perhaps also the High Line (potential vendors are submitting their proposals this week).

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Rockaway Taco May Hit the Beach With Roberta’s, Meat Hook, Vinegar Hill, and More

Photo: Daniel Maurer

Rockaway Taco still hasn’t announced that it’ll be taking over the Rockaway Beach boardwalk concessions at Beach 86th, 97th, and 106th Streets, but we hear that a contract with the Parks Department is in the works — and it’s not the only thing we’ve discovered from sources close to the deal. Not only are David Selig and Andrew Field said to be planning a boardwalk satellite at 97th Street that will specialize in seviche and Mexican sandwiches, they’ve also been talking to folks from Roberta’s, the Meat Hook, Caracas, and Sam Buffa of Vinegar Hill House about contributing menus to the concession stands. And Bowery Beef has been seen eyeing the 106th Street stand in hopes of serving roast-beef sandwiches as well as shellfish, including Gloucester lobsters.

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Sfoglia’s Ron Suhanosky Is the New Chef at Stuzzicheria

Photo: Lindseybelle Photography

Last week there was word that Stuzzicheria chef Mike Franzetti went to Dean Street, and now we can report that the Tribeca joint’s new chef will be none other than Ron Suhanosky. The chef left Upper East Side favorite Sfoglia last fall to write a cookbook (The Italian Table, his follow-up to the Beard Award–winning Pasta Sfoglia, will be published in October). Now he’s ready to get back in the kitchen: After Stuzzicheria closes on Sunday and Monday for what Suhanosky says will be a quick “country chic” makeover, he’ll introduce a new menu. From there, the new executive chef plans to broaden the Stuzzicheria concept beyond just southern Italy as he expands it to other neighborhoods and even other cities.

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Sifton Enjoys Niko; Cheshes Calls M. Wells an ‘Ambitious Newcomer’

Niko is "old-fashioned and rare, a restaurant with good food run by the guy who actually owns the business, devoted to its regulars," says Sam Sifton. "Red king crab legs are sweet and excellent, served with drawn butter and a bean-sprout kimchi. A slow-roasted spicy chicken served with consommé can improve a mood immediately, and sustain it for hours afterward." [NYT]
Related: What to Eat at Niko, Opening Monday in Soho

M. Wells is "an ambitious newcomer that is shaping up to be NYC’s deliverance from its rustic Italian rut," says Jay Cheshes. "You won’t find a better all-American lobster roll than the knife-and-fork monster here. Save a few things for the next visit. It’s not going away." [TONY]

At Mable's Smokehouse, "the sliced brisket, in particular, is superb — rimmed with fat, smoke-ringed, and nicely chewy," writes Robert Sietsema. "Though nicely cooked and tender, the [pork ribs] have been brushed with barbecue sauce prior to serving, depriving you of your barbecue Free Will." [VV]

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Restaurant-Coupon Backlash; GrubWithUs Forces New Yorkers to Socialize

• The restaurant-coupon backlash is amping up: As Marc Murphy of Ditch Plains in New York put it, “How many more of these can there be?” [NYT]

• Forget Moons Over My Hammy; even places like Denny's and IHOP are offering healthier fare. [USAT]

• New Yorkers are actually using a new service called GrubWithUs that encourages strangers to dine together in restaurants. Is no one surly in this town anymore? [NYP]

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