Jonathan Benno’s Lincoln may have disappointed most critics (it got one star out of Platt, one and a half stars out of Cuozzo, and two stars out of Sutton and Sifton), but Alan Richman puts it atop GQ’s list of the “10 Best New Restaurants in America,” calling it “America's most intelligent Italian restaurant.” More intelligent, it seems, than last year’s top dog, Marea. Note to chefs: Look how far a little preopening kitchen schmoozing can go! Less surprising, the list includes the Kitchen at Brooklyn Fare, Flour + Water in San Francisco, Menton in Boston, and Longman & Eagle in Chicago.