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This bagel maker on the L.I.E. service road has single-handedly elevated the gastronomic reputation of Fresh Meadows, becoming a popular stop along the New York-Hamptons route. Opened more than half a century ago by Abe Moskowitz and partners, the 24-hour, takeout-only store has changed hands in recent years, but still kettles its dough to make an old-fashioned bagel—firm and chewy, though without the hard exterior that some traditionalists prefer. The bakers keep to a modest repertoire of flavors, generously applying toppings such as salt, onion, and a sticky garlic so potent it’s bagged separately. They also offer a fairly white-bread bialy, which is soft rather than crisp and airy. Along with prepackaged Nova and lox, the store sells its own smooth, homemade cream cheese in several varieties, as well as a sharp whitefish salad with a mild celery crunch. Tuna, egg salad, cold cuts, and cheeses can also be layered onto a bagel sandwich, and muffins and pastries from Morrison's Bakery add a sweet breakfast option. — Karen Hudes

For a festive brunch, customers anywhere in the U.S. can have a bagel or drake cake platter shipped overnight. Customers in Canada can order drake cakes but not bagels. The only time the store closes is after 4 p.m. on Christmas Eve.