L2O Wines

Eau-de-Vie

 

Eau-de-vie is a traditional liquer from France. Made from the fermentation and distillation of various fruits, it is also known as fruit brandy.  The English translation of the term is ‘water of life”, referring to an earlier era when alcohol was used to cure disease.  We are developing an extensive collection of these classic digestives, one of our favorites being the Kirsch Vieux from Massenez.  Massenez is a family run distillery located in the Alsace region of France.  Committed to quality and traditional techniques, they use 25-30 pounds of black cherries to produce 1 liter of Kirsch.  The result is a concentrated, yet elegant, eau-de-vie with pure fruit.  The nose is earthy and floral, with tones of brown rice, black cherry and vanilla blossom.  The palate is full and deep with notes of rich cherries and fresh earth.  The Kirsch Viex can be served over ice or neat and is usually ordered as an after dinner drink.  The kitchen also uses it in the production of their Tart Tropezienne.

Education

Our wine education program includes lectures, tasting information and written material.  During our daily pre-shift meetings, we have brief informative sessions and on Fridays we have longer, more involved wine classes.  Class is focused on areas of the wine list that go particularly well with our cuisine; we just finished Pinot Noir and are about to begin Riesling.    We will spend 3 classes studying Riesling; the first will focus on Germany, the second will center around Alsace and Austria and the last will explore New World Rieslings.  Our staff has an assigned reading from the Jancis Robinson wine course and when they get to class, they complete a short quiz based on this reading.  After the quiz, there is a lecture/ discussion.  This lecture expands upon the Robinson reading and highlights information that is pertinent to our wine program.  It is also a chance for people to ask questions about the reading. After the discussion, we put all of the information in a blue binder for future reference and have a small tasting.  It usually involves three wines from the region we are studying.  We taste through the wines in the Court of Master Sommeliers format.  At the end of the Riesling section, we will blind taste a wine from Germany, Alsace and New Zealand and decide where each wine comes from.

Number One

We are currently pouring the 2001 Kracher Nouvelle Vague #1 Traminer.  Traminer is a grape varietal that is related to Gewurtztraminer, being very similar in structure and a bit more subtle aromatically.  Traminer performs very well in the Burgenland region of Austria, especially when used in the production of dessert wine.  Kracher’s #1 is a Trockenberenauslese, which means that the grapes are left on the vine to achieve maximum ripeness and sugar levels.  In French, Nouvelle Vague means ‘new wave’ and all of Kracher’s Nouvelle Vague wines spend time in new oak.  Kracher assigns numbers to the cuvees of his wines on an annual basis; these numbers are roughly based on the sugar content of the wines.  The #1 is lightly, pleasantly sweet and will not overwhelm any pairing.  This dessert wine is deep golden in hue with an orange blossom nose that becomes richer on the palate; it is full bodied and viscous with a vibrant structure. Tones of caramel are accompanied by notes of toasted nut, honeyed apricot and fresh peach.  The wine is well made, well balanced and pairs very well with our peach melba dessert.

Champagne

We have recently expanded our selection of Champagne half-bottles.  A half-bottle contains about three glasses of Champagne, making it an attractive option for couples to sip on while looking over the menu.  Our offerings range in style from the fresh and lively Pommery to the rich and toasty Taittinger.  A more concentrated Champagne can also be paired with food. The spiced citrus tones of the 1997 Laurent Perrier Brut, for example, compliment the fragrant nuances of our foie gras dish.  This is a serious Champagne, with enough depth and structure to stand up to the richness of any mid or main course. From an aperitif to a main course accompaniment, Champagne half-bottles are an exciting way to explore the wine list.

Italian Chardonnay

Italian and Chardonnay are two words not often found in the same sentence together.  Usually grown in Burgundy and California, Chardonnay tends to get lost in Italy-a country better known for Barbaresco and Barolo.  In spite of this, a few Italian wine makers are producing quality Chardonnay, especially in the North East.  The Friuili Isonzo DOC, which is located just above the Adriatic Sea, near the Slovenian border, has a terrior suited for growing great Chardonnay.  Vie di Romans has been producing wine in this region for over a century, making complex and unique versions of the varietal.  In addition to having the accessibility of a California Chardonnay, these wines have the elegance and minerality of a white Burgundy.  We have the “Vie di Romans” and the “Ciampagnis Vieris” on the list; the “Vie di Romans” is also on the 12-course pairing.  It shows tones of red apple, lemon curd and pear, as well as notes of buttered popcorn, smoke and toasted hazelnut.  Currently paired with the Artic Char course, it best compliments richer fish and lobster.

Caipirinha

The Caipirinha is the national cocktail of Brazil. Made from Cachaça (a spirit created from fermented sugar cane that can only come from Brazil), lime and sugar, it is both refreshing and strong.  It is the perfect drink for the last few weeks of August, when Chicago weather seems more fitting for Brazil than the Midwest.

            The base of our Caipirinha is the Leblon Cachaça, which is made in Minas Gerais, the heart of Brazil.  Distilled in copper pots and aged in cognac casks, Leblon is a rich, smooth version of Cachaça.  We muddle it tableside, along with Kaffir limes, Kaffir leaves and sugar.  The drink is finished with a Kaffir lime syrup, ice and fresh cherries.  Cherries are not usually a component of the Caipirinha, but their ripeness adds another layer of flavor to the cocktail, fleshing out the brightness of the Kaffir lime.  The cocktail is intended as an aperitif, but can be enjoyed throughout dinner as well.

Sweet Wine

Brachetto d’Acqui is a wine designation in Northwest Italy that produces fragrant dessert wine.  Lightly effervescent and ruby hued, Brachetto is a refreshing dessert in and of itself.  It can also be a great wine to pair with; a base of wild strawberries and raspberries with notes of violets and vanilla make it a great accompaniment to sweet dishes.  We offer the Marenco “Pineto” Bracchetto with our strawberry dessert, which also has flavors of black sesame and aloe.  The wine is fresh, clean and just lightly sweet.   This allows it to work with the bright fruit tones of the dessert without over powering the more savory layers.

In addition to the Pineto, we offer a variety of sweet wines by the glass.  Dessert wines are a great way to compliment the end of meal and make the last few moments in the restaurant more memorable.  Another favorite sweet offering is the Stone Paddock Semillon from Hawkes Bay, New Zealand.  Richer and riper than the Pineto, it has layers of guava, mango and peach.  A golden, honeyed wine, the Stone Paddock is a reason to linger over mignardises at the end of an evening. 

Pairing Grid

                        

We offer a wine accompaniment to go with our 12-course tasting menu. It is comprised of nine different wines for $90. We strive to incorporate wines that are unique, exciting and complimentary to our food.  In building the wine pairing, we take into consideration the flavor, texture and structure of each wine, as well as the progression of the menu.  A dynamic pairing, it is altered daily in accordance with the changes that the kitchen makes. We print out a pairing grid for our team before service every day, reflecting those changes. The grid details the wines on the pairing, ensuring that the service team is on the same page and working together. If a guest is interested in the wine pairing, the sommelier and captain work in tandem to pour wines at the table, providing information and insight into their selections. 

Loire Valley

We have put a great deal of thought and effort into building the Loire Valley section of our wine list.  The Loire Valley has a wide range of wine in terms of style and varietals, and it also offers a great value.  In addition to the widely recognized Sauvignon Blanc from Sancerre, the Loire Valley also produces some beautiful examples of Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay and Romorantin.  In general, one can expect fresh, elegant, wines that are mineral driven from this part of France.

            One of our favorites from this area is the 2005 Francoise Chidaine “Les Tuffeaux”, from Montlouis. Montlouis is a small region right across the river from its more popular counterpoint, Vouvray.  Chenin Blanc is the only grape varietal  permitted here, making refined, food friendly wine.  This particular bottle from Chidaine has tones of jasmine, honey, pebbles and deep wet slate.  Supporting this mineral backbone are notes of quince, pear and red apple.  The wine is slightly sweet and very well balanced, making it a great pair with our salmon dish.  Our cold smoked salmon is accompanied by dehydrated earl grey tea, ginger and brioche crouton.  The floral, jasmine aromatics of the wine match the fragrant tones of tea and ginger in the dish.  Structurally, the wine is strong enough to pair with the rich texture of a fish like salmon.  The sweetness helps round out the bold flavors of smoke and ginger.  Chantelle says “The Chidaine with the salmon is like adding a little bit of honey to your tea.”  

Decanting White Wine

There are two principal motivations for decanting wine; to remove sediment and to obtain oxygen exposure.  We typically offer to decant older red wines as well as younger, more full bodied bottles.  Because the decision to decant is based upon opinion and preference, we always ask the host before decanting.  Occasionally, we inquire about decanting a white wine-particularly in the case of older, oaked wines that have plenty of structure.  Last week, a guest ordered the Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Blanc 1999.  She initially decided against decanting and the wine was very tight and unexpressive. It was a disappointing moment for a wine that holds such high expectations.  After that first taste, we decided to decant the white wine in hopes of a distinct change.  We were pleased to find that the wine changed immediately, allowing us to experience the true nature of the bottle and all its potential.  Round notes of white peach, red apple and honey unfurled, underscored by tones of toasted hazelnut, sage and a gripping minerality.  Simultaneously supple and structured, this was a classic example of an Hermitage Blanc.  “This is more like it!” she proclaimed and our eyes met over a smile of mutual relief and satisfaction.