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Kauffman Says ‘I’ll Be Damned’ About Thermidor; Reidinger Enjoys Brisas de Acapulco

Jonathan Kauffman takes a crack at Thermidor this week, right after Unterman's rave. He writes that "the decor seems of a piece with the [1950s-inspired] menu," and he loved the warm, golden, Parker House rolls that, like the popovers at Wayfare Tavern, probably should have never gone away. Also, he says, "Binn is earnest about making the retro food work, and I'll be damned, most of it does." He's not as hot as Patti was for the chicken Kiev however, calling it a "dry, rather dull reworking," and he says one bite of the rich lobster Thermidor will "make you take back every hateful thing you've said about Alice Waters (this month)." [SF Weekly]

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BlackBoardEats’ Maggie Nemser Wants to Make Every Night Like New Year’s Eve, If a Restaurant Can Handle It

Maggie Nemser

Maggie Nemser founded BlackBoardEats last year and New York quickly ate up the exclusive restaurant deals available in their weekly email blast. The company has since added BlackBoard Everywhere, offering national product and travel deals, and expanded to Los Angeles and San Francisco, where participating restaurants have been inundated with business from the discount-hungry populace, all of whom have only a month to use their discount code. Grub Street grabbed a minute with Nemser — who formerly was the editor at Yahoo! Food — to see how the response has been different in the three cities, and to find out which restaurants spent those 30 days totally in the weeds.

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Syrah Sales Stuck in a Slump

"With regard to retail sales, forget it...Buyers don't want to talk. They won’t even let you pull it out of the bag. And that's in California. It's much worse in the Midwest—we can't give Syrah away."- John Lancaster, owner of Skylark Wine Company and sommelier at San Francisco's Boulevard. [Angeleno]

How Foodie Is Your Music Fest?

Hog Island Oyster Co. at last year's Outside Lands. This year Anchor & Hope will be bringing the oysters.Photo: J. Barmann/Grub Street

Gone are the days when music festivals were beer-and-burger affairs geared solely toward teens and twentysomethings who were mostly worried about smuggling in drugs and Popov vodka. As we've noted earlier, the new wave in food concessions at festivals like Lollapalooza this weekend in Chicago and Outside Lands next weekend in San Francisco caters to an audience with an appreciation for fine food and decent wines, and likes to spend their between-set downtime hanging with name-brand chefs. Below, we compare and contrast the late-summer fests and grade them on their overall foodie quotient.

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Confirmed: Michael Mina Becoming Bourbon Steak

As earlier discussed, Restaurant Michael Mina at the St. Francis is morphing into one of his steakhouse concepts, Bourbon Steak, previously seen in Miami and D.C. and featuring his signature butter-poached, slow-roasted steaks. Grub Street just received the official press release, giving the opening date of October 7, with Michael Mina shuttering for the makeover in mid-September. Mina is quoted saying, "I have crafted a menu that is unique and distinctive to the Bourbon Steak in San Francisco, focusing on California product, producers and farmers." Look for Michael Mina to reopen just a few weeks later, in mid-October, in the former Aqua space (252 California) with a more casual dining vibe.

Earlier:
Michael Mina Announces Plans for Aqua and His Eponymous Restaurant [Grub Street]

Big Gay Ice Cream Truck to Make Tranny-Themed Sundae With Humphry Slocombe

NY's Big Gay Ice Cream Truck team is coming to S.F. on August 22, sans truck, and collaborating with Humphry Slocombe on a sundae called the Tranny Smackdown, according to SFoodie. The event involves Beach Blanket Babylon somehow, and will take place at Humphry Slocombe. Details remain a little scarce. [SFoodie]

Timothy Hollingsworth Ate Some *Really* Spicy Sh*t in Sydney

Hollingsworth at the Bocuse d'Or.

For this week's edition of the San Francisco Diet, we go Down Under with a local chef: 2010 James Beard Award winner for Rising Star Chef Timothy Hollingsworth — currently the man in charge of the kitchen at The French Laundry — who used the Laundry's July hiatus to take a quick trip to Australia. In addition to surfing at Bondi Beach, Hollingsworth dined with restaurateur Neil Perry and hit several of the greatest restaurant hits in Sydney. Below, see his entire food itinerary for his week off work.

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CAV Might Be On the Outs

We hate being doomsayers about struggling businesses, but Eater yesterday reiterated a rumor Grub Street had already heard that CAV Wine Bar (which recently nixed their food program) might not be doing so well. Owner Pamela Busch denies that she has any plans to close. But yeah, that space is kind of big for just a wine bar... [Eater]

Shouldn’t a Restaurant Be Forced to Admit If They Had Rats?

Ratatouille this ain't.

During an inspection by the San Francisco Public Health Department at culty vegan oasis Café Gratitude on July 15, a "juvenile rat" ran between the legs of the inspector, and he naturally forced the place to shut down to clean up their act, as Mission Local reports. The restaurant only closed for 24 hours for "vermin abatement," but it turns out that San Francisco doesn't require any sort of public posting about the closure or the reason for it, nor do they have any minimum requirement for how long a place gets shuttered when they're crawling with rats! New York, L.A., and other cities across the country have much stricter rules about disclosing the reasons for a health department closure, while in S.F. an anonymous health department official admits that it is not uncommon for a restaurant simply to put up a sign that says "closed for renovations," and get away with it. Really, San Francisco?

SF Rats Have It Easy [Mission Local]

Steve Jobs Dines Waits for Table at Flour + Water; Cheez Doodle Creator Dies

• Even Steve Jobs cannot get enough of Flour + Water's pizza, and he had to wait for a table like everyone else. [Tablehopper, SFoodie]

• Reminder: Taste of the Nation Napa Valley happens tomorrow, and we still haven't given away those free tickets. [Grub Street]

Cassis, the small French bistro "in the Bermuda Triangle that is Sutter at Steiner" has closed. [Eater]

• A profile of Bebe Sweetbriar, drag queen hostess of trivia night at Harvey's in the Castro. [Chron]

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