Jonathan Kauffman takes a crack at Thermidor this week, right after Unterman's rave. He writes that "the decor seems of a piece with the [1950s-inspired] menu," and he loved the warm, golden, Parker House rolls that, like the popovers at Wayfare Tavern, probably should have never gone away. Also, he says, "Binn is earnest about making the retro food work, and I'll be damned, most of it does." He's not as hot as Patti was for the chicken Kiev however, calling it a "dry, rather dull reworking," and he says one bite of the rich lobster Thermidor will "make you take back every hateful thing you've said about Alice Waters (this month)." [SF Weekly]