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Last Night at Le Fooding: San Francisco Edges Out New York, For Now

The scrum at the Seersucker fried chicken tablePhoto: Helen Rosner

"I think the secret is to get food, and then get more food," we heard one partygoer tell another at last night's Le Fooding. As strategies go, it wasn't a bad one; super-long lines for virtually every offering snaked around P.S. 1, meaning that the best plan was to pick up one dish and eat it while waiting in line for another. With judicious pausing between bites — take a sip of champagne, complain a little about standing in high heels in a sandpit, inconspicuously scope out whether attendant celebs like Jake Gyllenhaal, Amber Tamblyn, and Aziz Ansari are standing nearby — it was possible to finish your grilled pork ribeye from Nopa within seconds of having to pick up your pickle-and-mortadella salad from Torrisi.

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09/24/10

A Pickle-Eating Contest in Greenpoint; Aces and Eights Reopens

Cobble Hill: The indoor beer garden at 61 Bergen Street has taken its plywood down and looks ready to open soon. [Brownstoner]
East Village: Aces and Eights on Avenue A reopens today after a week's closure owing to paperwork and permit problems. [EV Grieve]
Sabor A Mexico taqueria is open at the corner of First Avenue and 10th Street. [EV Grieve]
Flatiron: Resto, Ilili, Cabrito, and Hill Country Barbecue are among the vendors setting up shop for this weekend's launch of the Madison Square Market, which will feature artisan cuisine as well as various arts and crafts stores. [Grub Street]

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Joe Manganiello Watched His Figure at Lavo; Cameron Diaz Watched A-Rod’s at the Lion

Midtown's newly opened dining hot spot Lavo celebrated its launch this week and among the guests was Joe Manganiello, who opted for a no-carbs meal made up just for him. That's proof abs like this take some serious dedication. Then downtown at the Lion, Cameron Diaz was concentrating on boyfriend Alex Rodriguez's form — she watched a game on a mini-TV at her table with friends, before joining him later to commiserate the Yankees loss at 1Oak.

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Lovely Day Opens a Lovely Downstairs Dining Room

Photo: Courtesy of Lovely Day

Nolita’s Lovely Day has finally opened its downstairs space, three years in the making (an upstairs fire set back construction, and then the Community Board got nervous about the diminutive cheap-eats favorite gaining another bar). Head downstairs and you’ll see that the restaurant’s former prep kitchen has been converted into a dining room decorated with vintage wallpaper, 23 mismatched chairs, and twelve stools at a backlit deco bar. The space has its own kitchen, and only there will you be able to score menu additions like edamame dip with rice chips and charcoal-barbecued spare ribs. There’s also a burger on the way. Right now, the downstairs is open (and accepting reservations for parties of five or more) from 6 p.m. till midnight, Tuesday through Saturday, and it will soon be open Sundays and Mondays as well.

Handicapping Le Grand Fooding’s N.Y. vs. S.F. Deathmatch

Grub Street is reporting to you live from New York City where an hour from now chefs from America's two greatest food cities (that'd be San Francisco and New York) are facing off in a battle staged and sponsored by a French hipster food concern and a French champagne. It's Le Grand Fooding, ladies and gentlemen, and even as we speak, NYC-based chef-lebrities like Dan Barber and David Chang are dicing their mise-en-place and chest-bumping in the locker room while Californians Daniel Patterson, Jeremy Fox, and Melissa Perello give pep-talks to their foraged herbs, chat about the muggy weather, and shout-sing Tupac songs to get pumped. But which city's cuisine kicks the well-fed butt of the other? We've handicapped the chefs based on pairings from the super-aggro event posters; read on to see which city we predict will take the win.

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New Study Gives Alice Waters Fresh Ways to Dismiss Her Haters

Photo: iStockPhoto

A new study of school kids by U.C. Berkeley researchers validates what Alice Waters has been preaching for years: Teaching kids about gardening and cooking makes them want to eat more vegetables. The Atlantic reports the news, providing a retort to Caitlin Flanagan's January hit piece in which she scoffed at the reasoning behind Waters's Edible Schoolyard program and encouraged the students involved ("our state’s new child farm laborers") to strike. Among the 238 students tracked in the study who ate from daily menus from Alice's citywide School Lunch Inititiative (SLI), the kids who also grew and cooked their own vegetables were more knowledgeable about nutrition, ate more fruits and vegetables daily ("including a preference for leafy greens like kale, spinach, and chard"), and had "more positive attitudes about the taste and health value of school lunch."

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First Look at the Bedford, the Farm-to-Table Newcomer on You-Know-What Avenue

First there was the Delancey, then the Eldridge, then the Suffolk, and now, from the owners of K&M; and Legion, there’s the Bedford. Chef Blake Joyal comes from Hundred Acres, Craft, and the Modern, and will apply a similar Greenmarket-seasonal emphasis to the southern-influenced American cuisine here. He assures: “Fish is sourced from a variety of local and reputable fishmongers, and the meats come from well-known organic farmers.” The wine is organic and biodynamic. Check out the menus below and you’ll see, among other things, fried blowfish tails, also a recent special at Goods. A new Williamsburg trend? View the slideshow and you’ll spot vintage school chairs and tables fashioned from fifties Army field desks. The Bedford opens early for La Colombe coffee and breakfast, and serves a late-night menu till 2 a.m. There are also outdoor seats.

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Let’s Play a Guessing Game With Ikea’s Flat-Out Gorgeous Baking Book

A: What are these the ingredients for?Photo: Courtesy Carl Kleiner and Ikea

Everyone's favorite homewares purveyor Ikea has just published a collection of baking recipes called Hembakat är Bäst (Homemade Is Best). Sure, knowing how to make Princess Cake is fine and dandy, but the volume is illustrated with some of the most inventive cookbook photography we've ever seen: Styled by Evelina Bratell and photographed by Carl Kleiner, the pristine arrangements of ingredients are so stark and geometric that they verge on the abstract. The good news is that the book is completely free; the bad news is that the only place you can get it is in the kitchen section of Ikea stores — in Sweden. Read on for more of Kleiner's stunning images, and see if you can guess what the recipes are for. (Answers are at the very end of the post.)

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Kinski Has Closed

Manhattan gains an Austrian joint tomorrow, but it has also lost one: Fork in the Road discovers that the Lower East Side’s Kinski has closed after less than year. [Fork in the Road/VV]

Tables Available at Benoit and Falai; Eleven Madison Park Fully Booked

It's 4 p.m., and that means it's time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don't guarantee the results.)
Today: Certified Geniuses

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A Look Inside FoodParc, the Midtown Food Court Inspired by Blade Runner

With its Twitter board and interactive ordering systems, 4 Food introduced Manhattan to high-concept digital dining, but Jeffrey Chodorow's FoodParc — which opened yesterday on the ground floor of the Eventi Hotel in the nebulous area just south of Herald Square — might have perfected it. The multi-counter, quick-serve spot was designed by Academy Award–winning set designer Syd Mead (he was responsible for Blade Runner!), though for all its futuristic flourishes the restaurant is essentially a food court. Four counters churning out a mix-and-match collection of shamelessly unhealthy fare — think pastrami egg rolls or pasta served on a plate made out of bread — which you order via an impressively intuitive touch-screen computer system that text messages you when your food is ready.

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First Look at Brats, Daniel Angerer's Sausage Spot Opening Tomorrow

Daniel Angerer of Klee Brasserie is going the same route his compatriot Kurt Gutenbrunner did at the Standard Biergarten— tomorrow, he and partner Lori Mason will introduce their take on the Austrian sausage stand. Brats will consist of sausages described on the menu as “classic” (featuring Eastern European ingredients), “designer” (featuring non-orthdox ingredients like kimchee), and “gourmet” (featuring high-end ingredients like wagyu beef). If wine, beer, and sake on tap isn’t your thing, you can enjoy a “Milkaholic” made from goat, sheep, and cow milk (but not breast milk). Take a look at the slideshow— does the 24-seat room’s décor look invitingly familiar? That might be because designer Garrett Singer also recently lent his talents to Hill Country Chicken. Brats will be open from 5 p.m. till midnight at first, and will eventually open at 8 a.m. The menu is below.

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Stumptown Opens Red Hook Coffee Mecca

According to Oliver Strand’s Ristretto column, Stumptown finally opened its Red Hook coffee bar today. You can choose from up to 35 different coffees (daily cuppings will help you decide), and have them brewed via French press, Chemex, Aeropress, siphon, or pour over. Check out the slideshow. [T Magazine]

Jon Bloostein Impulse-Buys $3,400 of Geese at Heirloom Vegetable Auction

Photo: Ian Hubball / iStockphoto

Last night at Sotheby’s, the bidding for the live fowl began at $1,600. Lot No. 9, titled “Duck, Duck, Goose,” contained a drake, gander, goose, cockerel, tom, hen, two ducks, and two pullets. Similar to those who live in the surrounding Upper East Side neighborhood, these birds were well-bred and boasted strong pedigrees from years of selective mating. Paddles shot up as the price of the poultry jumped from $1,600 to $2,400 in seconds before all but two bidders dropped out. The men outdueled each other in $200 increments before the Chairman of Sotheby’s North America, James Niven smacked his gavel and shouted, “Sold! To the man in the blue shirt for $3,400.”

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The Food Network’s Marc Summers Won’t Eat Eyeballs, Intestines or Any Tripey Kind-of Stuff

Marc Summers: No tripe? No problem.Photo: Food Network

When it comes to dining out, the Food Network’s Marc Summers says he has a “charmed existence.” Be it a Stephen Starr, Marc Vetri or a Jose Garces setting, from 25 years of work on and behind the scenes of various TV programs his beaming smile is easily recognizable in any dining room. “I always get treated to extra stuff that I didn’t plan on eating,” he says. “I guess it’s one of the perks of being on the Food Network.” It’s a mixed blessing, though. Raised on a typical Midwestern diet of beef, poultry and potatoes, he admits his palate is rather tame, but he tries to remain open to new tastes and experiences. “Often I have consumed items that in my wildest dreams I never thought I would eat,” he says. “Mario Batali is a dear friend, I love him to death, but when I visit him he always starts cutting up pig ears, pigs feat and like pig everything. And I’m like, ‘Pig shit, I’m not eating that!’ I don’t eat eyeballs, intestines or any tripey kind of stuff.” Find out what Marc had to eat this week in our latest Philadelphia Diet.

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Chang Isn’t About to Talk More Smack About San Francisco

So. David Chang’s sole response to Daniel Patterson’s ruminations about the “inexorable march” of comfort food in New York? “Ditto whatever Daniel said,” Chang writes today at the Moment. “Set, match, Patterson.” For further ruminations about the difference between the East and West Coast scenes, we’re forced to turn to Nate Appleman of Pulino’s, who tells the W Editor’s Blog: “San Francisco diners are just really food-focused. In New York, the atmosphere and the scene are just as important as the food.” He says, “Overall, the produce is much, much better [in California]. It takes a whole bunch of East Coast carrots to equal the flavor of one California carrot.” As for the whole figs-on-a-plate thing: “Yes, that’s San Francisco cooking, but I don’t think it’s necessarily a negative thing. I would put figs on a plate. I would celebrate the fig.”

Le Fooding Fights | David Chang on Daniel Patterson [T Magazine]
Five Minutes with Nate Appleman [Editor’s Blog/W]

Sietsema’s Top Ten Chinese

Robert Sietsema picks his top ten best Chinese restaurants today, and tells us that hand-pulled noodle joint Sheng Wang “has undergone a complete renovation, so that now you could take your grandmother there.” So what’s the No. 1 Chinese spot? Cantonese favorite A-Wah. [Fork in the Road/VV]

The James Weird Awards: Death-Threat Hot Wings; Justin Bieber Tries Fried Pickles at Hooters

This week we've been faced with lots of really important questions: Will Larry Summers get a burger named after him now that he's resigned from the White House and moving back to Harvard? Can a restaurant named Beer Heaven live up to its promise? Is it possible for us to ever emotionally recover from the trauma of Miley Cyrus hit-and-running a valet at a restaurant? Does Gary Danko ever get bored of constantly winning Zagat's No. 1 spot in San Francisco? Seriously, we have no idea. To distract us from these burning issues, let's take a look at this week's James Weird Award winners.

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Restaurateurs Seek Tip Guidance; Will School Lunches Rob Food Stamps?

• New York restaurateurs want Albany to provide more guidance on workers' tips and pay. [WSJ]

• Some Democrats are worried that spending more money on school lunches will take money away from food stamps. [NYT]

• Northwestern farmers' market fans are upset that local supermarkets have recently begun operating copycat markets in front of their stores. [WSJ]

• The Brooklyneer, an artisanal Brooklyn-themed restaurant, will soon open in Manhattan. [NYC the Blog]

• Walgreens' Manhattan stores recently started selling fresh fruit, vegetables, and packaged meals in a pilot program that could eventually expand nationwide. [Diner's Journal/NYT]

• A bagel store in Heathrow Airport offers bagel sandwiches named after New York City neighborhoods. [Curbed]

Chef Geoffrey Zakarian Tastes the National’s Entire Menu at Once, Clears His Palate With Beer

Zakarian in the raw space that will soon be the National.Photo: Melissa Hom

"I'm just so sick of talking about the Lambs Club," says chef Geoffrey Zakarian. "It feels great to not have to answer any more questions about when it's going to open, and just get to work." His restaurant, first announced in 2007, opened last month just a handful of years behind schedule. Work these days means the National, the restaurant he's opening next month on the ground floor of the Benjamin hotel. "I've been waiting like twenty years to open a place like this," he says. "It's a midtown neighborhood joint, which should be an oxymoron." Straddling the office-heavy Grand Central area and the more residential neighborhood of Sutton Place, Zakarian sees room for something welcoming. "Where else are you going to go?" he asks. "The only two options you have are Michael Jordan's and Cipriani, and one's terrible and one's a rip-off." Find out what he had to eat this week in our latest New York Diet.

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