On the train home from the game last night, one question repeatedly came to mind: what would LS Lowry make of Stevenage?
Lowry's famous painting Going to the Match is so important in the heritage of the national winter game that the PFA bought it in 1999, splashing out nearly £2m (it can afford it). There are still plenty of grounds where you can sense what Lowry sensed, but Stevenage's Lamex Stadium, or rather the journey to it from the station, is about as far away from Lowry's interpretation as it is possible to be.
The match was the Carling Cup first round, the Football League's newest team against last season's beaten FA Cup finalists. Typical Portsmouth, following Wembley with Stevenage for successive cup ties. More than 1,000 Pompey fans made the journey, a phenomenal number given it was a Monday night game televised live. Perhaps they, like me, were tempted by the prospect of visiting a new ground (this was my 72nd different away ground to watch Pompey, so this is not the aloof view of a disenfranchised Premier League dilettante). The game itself was enjoyable, the club were very welcoming, and the atmosphere was good. Marc Wilson played a blinder (again).
The man at the station, when asked for directions to the ground, said: "Along here, down the steps, down to the police station, past the roundabout, past Asda and keep going." Interesting that superstores should be the landmarks (Tesco was the other way) but not surprising when you make the journey. More than a mile and I didn't see a single house. The only people were shoppers, or drivers or, eventually, fans. Three roundabouts, three dual carriageways, a Mothercare, an Asda, a Blockbuster Video, a McDonald's and a Burger King, and a pet supplies superstore. Two retails parks. No houses, no pubs. Very, very strange.
Diversity is a wonderful thing, so let's not criticise here. We did that in the Observer a few years back with our very popular "Crap Grounds" series. But going to the match is part of the football experience, and there are some very rewarding walks from stations to stadiums. Stevenage is not one of them.
For convenience and a buzz there are Ipswich, Newcastle, Stockport, Wolves. Good pubs, too, especially Stockport the last time I was there – they've probably all closed down since. For a good view there's the bridge over the Wear at Sunderland, there's Burnley and the surrounding hills (and great pints), and there's Norwich. For a pleasant walk with plenty of bars and restaurants (especially curry houses) there's Southampton. There are good walks to be had all over the country, and there are grim ones, too (Luton, Gillingham, Rotherham). And there are hideously long walks: Preston, Plymouth and, looking at the map, Oxford (I only went to the old Manor Ground and that was far enough). But there is, surely, nowhere quite like Stevenage.
Maybe it's time to get Rob Smyth to do a Joy of Six on best walks from the station. I'm sure you can give us some suggestions ...
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