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Eat and drink Edinburgh: readers' tips

Take a break from the festival mayhem with the pick of the city's best restaurants, cafes and pubs from Been there tippers

Clandemonium at Edinburgh Jazz Festival
It's festival time ... Edinburgh Castle in the background. Photograph: Danny Lawson/PA

PUBS

The Sheep Heid Inn

There can be few more pleasant ways to spend a sunny Edinburgh afternoon than taking a stroll through Holyrood Park to The Sheep Heid, built in 1360, which claims to be the oldest pub in Scotland. Expect traditional pub grub, while in summer an extensive barbecue menu is served in the courtyard. And if – as is likely – the weather turns inclement, you can always skip the walk and have a pint of local ale and a game of skittles in the pub's alley.
• 43-45 The Causeway, Duddingston, 0131 661 7974, sheepheid.co.uk
Lellrua

The Blind Poet and Khushi's Diner

The Blind Poet is a small cosy pub with comfy, sink-into sofas and a friendly atmosphere. A great place to watch the football, listen to Wednesday night's regular live band or test your brain in the Sunday night pub quiz. Its walls are scattered with famous quotes while the gents is famously adorned with clippings from certain popular men's mags. Below is Khushi's Diner, a local institution, which produces fine and original curries at reasonable prices. Bright and buzzing, it's the perfect place for a good catch up or a pre-show bite to eat and the open kitchen just adds to the atmosphere. There's a huge selection of homemade curries on offer but it's hard to resist the temptation of old favourites cooked to perfection, such as their sweet, coconutty lamb korma. Khushi's BYOB policy means you can bring your own wine, or better still a cold pint from the Blind Poet upstairs. A perfect combination before heading next door to sample some free festival comedy in the Counting House.
• 32 West Nicholson Street, Edinburgh, 0131 667 4871, khushisdiner.com
EdinBurgh22

The Bow Bar

Situated on one of Edinburgh's most wonderful streets - Victoria Street - with all its multicoloured independent boutique shops and restaurants, the Bow Bar is a step back in time to the days when you could spend an entire evening in the local and still leave without having tasted every ale on offer. Classic interior with friendly, extremely knowledgeable staff, it's a small, cosy kind of pub that locals and an increasing number of tourists frequent. If you're after an excellent choice of mainly British beer and a chance to chat without blaring music, then this is the place.
• 80 West Bow Edinburgh, 0131 226 7667
Tropicalfruits

King's Wark

This is a superb gastropub hidden down in Leith - a rather cool and modern quay area with some relaxed bars. If you are looking for wonderful gastropub food at a reasonable price, then I cannot recommend King's Wark enough. I had a pork dish and it melted in the mouth, the crackling was to die for - and it was only £7.50. A little bit off the usual beaten track of the Royal Mile but well worth the extra mile to get there.
• 36 Shore, Edinburgh, 0131 554 9260
Kittykatster

Sandy Bell's and Monster Mash

There are many pubs with great music in Edinburgh and the first I visited was Sandy Bell's on Forrest Road. Really nice atmosphere thanks to the good traditional music played by anyone who had an instrument to hand. But the best thing about this pub is that you just need to cross the road to find the fantastic Monster Mash where you can enjoy traditional dishes like haggis, neeps and tatties, at least four different kinds of mash and much more. There's a large choice for vegetarians as well. All served in huge portions for a low price.
• Sandy Bell's, 25 Forrest Road, Edinburgh, 0131 225 2751
• Monster Mash, 4a Forrest Road, Edinburgh 0131 260 9806, monstermashcafe.co.uk
Marilixa

RESTAURANTS

The Mosque Kitchen

Informal curries cooked and served in the grounds of the Edinburgh Central Mosque. Tasty, portions big enough to satisfy my growing 14-year-old, variety enough for a seven-year-old, and catering for both vegetarians and carnivores. A treat for all the family without breaking the bank.
• 50 Potterrow, behind the National Museum of Scotland, near to the University – the minaret is a clue, 07792 230407, mosquekitchen.co.uk
joefrozentoes

Sweet Melinda's Restaurant

The team at Sweet Melinda's genuinely care about ingredients. With a focus on seafood and game, the dishes are interesting and delicious – all sourced locally, cooked on site and served in the cosy restaurant space filled with old quirky photos. Don't miss it if you're a festival goer or just a city visitor!
• 11 Roseneath Street (Warrender Park Road), Marchmont; 0131 229 7953, sweetmelindas.co.uk
PtolemyToys

The Grain Store

Tucked away on one of Edinburgh's most famous streets, this is the perfect place to escape the festival crowds without leaving the city centre. Situated on the first floor of 30 Victoria Street, opposite the fabulous Bow Bar (see above), it is easy to miss from the street, which lends a visit a pleasantly "in the know" feel. The low-vaulted loft setting is intimate, and very romantic; the food imaginative, unfussy and excellent value.
• 30 Victoria Street, 0131 225 7635, grainstore-restaurant.co.uk
ejr81

Chop Chop

Chop Chop has to be the best Chinese restaurant ever! Their dumplings are to die for, and the food is brought as it is cooked so you can enjoy a random dining experience. Family-friendly, family-run business right next to Haymarket Station. They've also just opened one in Leith.
• 248 Morrison Street, Haymarket; 0131 221 1155, chop-chop.co.uk
kgmiller

Empires

This small Turkish restaurant a few minutes' walk from The Pleasance is ideal for tucking into some pre- or post-show food. The atmosphere is friendly and lively, while the food – in the form of platters of meze followed by Turkish coffee and baklava – is fantastic and very reasonably priced (it's also BYOB, which helps to keep the cost down). There is often live music.
• 24 St Mary's Street, 0131 466 0100, empirescafe.wordpress.com
lazarwalker

L'Artichaut

L'Artichaut is a warm and welcoming place, simply but charmingly furnished. Their food is imaginative, beautifully presented and as seasonal and local as possible. Catriona's wine advice is excellent. I normally find puddings overly sweet and cloying, but L'Artichaut's pink peppercorn and lime meringues with lemon curd and bitter chocolate sauce was one of the most delicious things I've ever eaten. So was their polenta and shiitake mushroom terrine with sauce soubise. Incidentally, it's vegetarian, but if you're not, you won't even notice because the food is so fabulous.
• 14 Eyre Place, Edinburgh, 0131 558 1608, lartichaut.co.uk
SusieBee

Mussel Shack

My hot tip has to be the Mussel Shack at the Speigeltent venue. It's an outdoor seafood bar, lit up with sparkly fairy lights in picturesque Princes Street gardens at the foot of Edinburgh Castle. You really are amid the spirit and energy of the festival and Edinburgh itself. Try mussels with fresh homemade bread or frites, hot-smoked salmon in a crusty roll and oysters on ice with Tabasco. All washed down with cider or champagne!
• This year at Assembly, Princes Street Gardens, near Waverley station
rachelmoon

CAFES

Artisan Roast Coffee

If you like coffee you must go here. All other coffee will seem like a pale imitation. They buy direct from the growers and roast on site. What's more, if you bring your own cup, you pay less!
• 57 Broughton Street, 07590 590667, artisanroast.co.uk
LornaMac

Toast

A beautiful cafe with incredible food in the heart of Marchmont. You'll avoid swarms of festival-goers, but it will be busy with locals. Booking is probably sensible for brunch on weekends. Their full Scottish breakfast, an essential experience when visiting Edinburgh, is almost definitely the finest in the city. All dishes are reasonably priced.
• 146 Marchmont Road, 0131 446 9873, toastedinburgh.co.uk
jbourn

The Elephant House

Since our grandson went to the university we have got to know Edinburgh better and he showed us this coffee house and restaurant. It is where JK Rowling wrote her early novels, sitting in the back and it was also frequented by Ian Rankin and Alexander McCall Smith. So this should be enough inspiration for budding writers, but the ambience is also great and the homemade imaginative menu is even better. They serve homemade lasagne, panninis, some with Mexican flavours and even haggis and tatties. What more could you want?
• 21 GeorgeIV Bridge, Edinburgh, 0131 220 5355, elephanthouse.biz
Spinning

Wannaburger

Honest food at honest prices. Real beef, chicken or bacon burgers, traditionally with bun or healthily with salad, with thick shakes or Fentimans ginger beer. Rightly popular with families, locals and tourists.
• 7/8 Queensferry Street, West End, 0131 220 0036, wannaburger.com
margarethr

Nile Valley

Right smack in the middle of festival madness and five minutes from The Pleasance to the East and the Udderbelly even closer to the West, lies Nile Valley. It's the only place in Edinburgh to get a decent falafel. Pop in on your way between the two venues for a low-key fast-food lunch, or enjoy the calm oasis of the downstairs, candle-lit caverns over dinner.
• 6 Chapel Street, Edinburgh, 0131 667 8200
Travellingmink

Cafe Piccante

When you have been turned away from all the clubs along George Street ("no track shoes tonight, mate"), or it's 3am and you're not quite ready to take off your dancing shoes, the only place that's going to make you feel better on the walk home is the disco chippy, officially known as Cafe Piccante. Not only can you get a Bacardi Breezer with your fried pizza and chips, but a DJ is in situe to help you carry on the party. Order the 'Man's Special': burger, chips and a pint.
• Cafe Piccante, 19 Broughton Street, 0131 478 7884, cafepiccante.com
jaynie33

Loopy Lorna's teahouse

A great place to stop for tea and excellent scones. Slightly out of the city centre, but worth the stroll across the Meadows or a bus ride to the well-heeled suburb of Morningside. There are plenty of independent shops along Morningside Road for a pleasant browse.
• 370 Morningside Road, Edinburgh, 0131 447 9217, loopylornas.com
onthefyldeside

PICNIC

Peckham's deli in Newington and Arthur's Seat

There are plenty of places to eat and drink in Edinburgh but on a sunny day you can't beat a picnic on top of Arthur's Seat or in Holyrood Park. Pick up bread, cheese, olives, and more at Peckham's, plus beer, cider or wine and take the short walk to Arthur's Seat for perfect views for miles around. There are climbs, walks and plenty of space to just sit and enjoy the sunshine.
• 49 South Clerk Street, 0131 668 3737, peckhams.co.uk
DawnDavenport


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