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How to cook: bread

Tim Hayward learns a new technique for handling dough in a bread-making masterclass with Richard Bertinet


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Source: guardian.co.uk

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  • gillthepainter gillthepainter

    20 Jul 2010, 10:53AM

    What a terrific video cast.
    I've been on a bread making class (with Dan Lepard) and the amount of new skills you come back with is priceless.

    You adopt it into your other baking and cooking too.

    I've posted a link to your page onto the Beeb food messageboard too, to help people understand wetter doughs, hydration & your clever manipulating show of the dough.

    Nice one!

  • brownshoes brownshoes

    20 Jul 2010, 1:17PM

    Thinking of Richard's fury when anyone uses the word 'cook' instead of 'bake' in his class, I'm sure he'll love the URL for this video.

    I love this technique (although it's the only one I've ever used, so other more experienced people can make comparisons) .The key to it in my experience, which I didn't pick up from his books, is keeping your dough constantly corralled in a nice shape. Don't keep splatting it - make sure it remains in a good shape, scraping it together every ten whacks or so.

    Also, it's helpful to have a lovely, draft-free, warm kitchen like he has. Bah...

  • doomtrain doomtrain

    20 Jul 2010, 1:22PM

    Excellent technique with the heel of the hand. Works with wholemeal too. I have tried it with dried yeast and its o.k but proper yeast is best. And as always, the good bread makers always knead twice and prove twice.

  • rupert123 rupert123

    20 Jul 2010, 3:16PM

    agreed, great video.

    only thing is, where is the recipe!? strange there isn't one added.

    anyway the video mentioned:
    1kg flour
    20g sea salt
    20g yeast

    what about the water?
    what oven temperature, fan non fan?
    what type of yeast?

    anyone! ?

  • Altarboy Altarboy

    20 Jul 2010, 3:30PM

    Outstanding.

    Would have liked to have seen the bread transferred from table to bowl for proving and a recipe. Can probably use another recipe though and see if I can emulate 10% of Bertinet's method.

  • mikedow mikedow

    20 Jul 2010, 4:44PM

    I've been a pro baker myself, and I know cookbooks for domestic use have some weird quirks. The best thing is to look for recipes given by weight, and buy a set of scales, and you'll get consistent results.

  • Tehillim Tehillim

    20 Jul 2010, 4:52PM

    For me, Felicity Cloake's already posted the ideal bread recipe - which involves almost no kneading - I now make fluffy wholemeal loaves in batches of three with very little effort. The only change I've made is to halve the salt and butter content (I found that the original recipe produced a very salty, and somewhat oily, crust - when using salted butter, I don't buy unsalted).

    Felicity Cloake's version of Dan Lepard's recipe

  • angeldearie angeldearie

    20 Jul 2010, 5:19PM

    Pretty presposterous calling that stuff bread. It'll have no character.
    Actual bona fide bread made from carefully grown and milled grain will produce a very different dough that requires a sophisticated level of care and understanding on its way to becoming bread. What happened in this video might as well be pancakes.

  • simon83 simon83

    20 Jul 2010, 6:13PM

    This comment has been removed by a moderator. Replies may also be deleted.
  • Novelist Novelist

    20 Jul 2010, 6:21PM

    If I put 20g of salt in every loaf I would be back for another heart bypass soon. It is completely irresponsible showing the use of that much salt in bread. There is a campaign still going on to reduce the amount of salt manufacturers put in bread!
    Frankly I found this pretentious. I use a bread maker to knead the dough. I make terrific bread with it. Without the machine I would never make bread because there wouldn't be enough time.

  • cyeng cyeng

    20 Jul 2010, 6:54PM

    @Novelist

    "If I put 20g of salt in every loaf I would be back for another heart bypass soon. It is completely irresponsible showing the use of that much salt in bread."

    Be fair, that was 20g salt for 2kg flour and they made 3 or 4 loaves out of it. It's no more salt than most recipes call for (Nigel Slater uses a 'heaped teaspoon' for 500g flour or around 7g salt here: http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2010/apr/11/nigel-slater-spelt-bread-recipes).

    However, my day to day bread is a (pretentious?) part white, part rye sourdough that doesn't need salt at all - or kneading. (I used to forget to add salt and couldn't tell the difference so now I don't bother).

  • pompey1 pompey1

    20 Jul 2010, 6:57PM

    @rupert123

    I've got his book Dough (it's predictably brilliant)

    For one loaf, it's 500g flour
    350g water
    10g salt
    10g yeast

    I've had mixed success with the method, but the end result is always fab... try his fougasse....

  • TimHayward TimHayward

    20 Jul 2010, 7:22PM

    Contributor Contributor

    For those of you interested in the recipe....

    Basic white loaf (from 'Dough' by Richard Bertinet)
    For 4 loaves

    1kg strong white bread flour
    20g fine sea salt
    20g fresh yeast
    720g water

    Mix the ingredient as shown in the video. Rest for a minimum of 1 hour. Divide and mould. Prove in a tin until nearly double in size (about 1 hour). Bake at 240 degrees with steam (from a water spray) for 5 minutes then turn the oven down to 220 degrees and bake for a further 20 minutes until golden brown. Remove the loaf from the tin and pop it back into the oven for a couple more minutes.

  • MrsHicks MrsHicks

    20 Jul 2010, 8:07PM

    Thank you! So good to see this - and to see that Real Bread is being baked and given some 'air time'. My bread making improved markedly (though still lots to learn) when I attended a hands on bread course this year (with Tom Herbert). Getting the kneading and forming right is key - as is the temperature and humidity. I liked the idea of the spray water - I use a kettle with boiled water in the bottom of the oven and that works well too.

    Crackin' video and about to be tweeted and FBed to friends... Cheers.

  • andylynes andylynes

    21 Jul 2010, 1:23AM

    Always good to see Mr Bertinet (and Mr Hayward of course) on screen but I'd question the use of the word 'new' in the standfirst to this item, given that the technique and recipes were published back in 2005 in Bertinet's book Dough (referenced by Tim in his post on this thread) which also included an illustrative DVD.

    Although Felicity Cloake links to a Guardian article by Dan Lepard dated 2007, his virtually no knead method appeared online 4 years earlier in a report on a baking masterclass led by Lepard and organised by, um, me for eGulllet.org in the kitchens of Locanda Locatelli in 2003 which you can find here http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?/topic/30269-report-on-dan-lepards-baking-day/ .

  • Novelist Novelist

    21 Jul 2010, 6:57AM

    @cyeng:
    Precisely! A nicely made loaf needs no salt. I use a small level tsp per Kg. flour. My "usual" loaf is 25% whole grain and 75% white bread flour. I use olive oil rather than a solid fat.

  • roger779 roger779

    21 Jul 2010, 7:59AM

    Almost impossible to get decent bread in UK these days, unless you bake your own. Supermarkets' "fresh bread" is tasteless, fibre-free and stuffed with additive.

    Go to any baker on the continent.....

  • asheroy asheroy

    21 Jul 2010, 8:57AM

    Before I saw the video I thought oh hell go to France, then for obvious reasons not.
    What was missing was:
    What type of yeast was it? - Sour dough, dry(I think not), or standard bakers yeast.
    The French bread is the best by far, in the world.

  • NorthWestFrontier NorthWestFrontier

    21 Jul 2010, 9:04AM

    Thanks Tim - am loving your series and will definitely be having a crack at this bread recipe. Our daily bread is the Ballymaloe recipe but this looks amazing for a weekend treat.

    Have also been really getting into our home-made pizzas after your excellent video, and would seriously like to get a pig. Keep up the good work - great to see someone who's managed to successfully make their passion into a job.

  • mestizo mestizo

    21 Jul 2010, 9:23AM

    That dough looks absolutely beautiful! Far too much like hard work for me though (I'm with you cyeng - no kneading, overnight stand, sourdough or a gram of fresh yeast, and some folding before baking. I had the same thing with salt too - my sourdough has tons of flavour without it! Still need some for yeast-bread though)

  • JohnMMorrison JohnMMorrison

    21 Jul 2010, 9:56AM

    Contributor Contributor

    Though I am a sourdough-only baker who uses a bread machine (horror!) to mix the dough I found this a technically excellent video. It's good that Tim Hayward isn't a complete beginner. I learned a lot. My bible is Andrew Whitley's book Bread Matters. Read it and you will never buy a mass-produced loaf again. His recipes for Russian rye breads are brilliant.

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