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Diamonds light: Merchants say smaller rocks in vogue

Size really does matter in the recession-hit diamond market. As Rebecca Smithers reports, customers are turning their back on the big rocks

Diamond merchants are reporting an increase in sales of smaller stones

Diamond merchants are reporting an increase in sales of smaller stones. Photograph: Bonham's/PA

Diamonds should be for ever, but they lost their sparkle during the recession. Now specialist jewellers and diamond merchants are reporting that, while business is slowly picking up, there is a noticeable new trend – consumers have turned their backs on the big rocks in favour of smaller diamond rings.

Last year the industry suffered its worst downturn for years with a slump in demand for luxury items. In the Hatton Garden area of London – where nearly 300 businesses sit cheek-by-jowl in a cluster of streets on the edge of the City – "footfall" has noticeably dropped.

But while people are willing to downsize to smaller stones, they are not prepared to compromise on clarity and colour. Even with the pressures of the recession, retailers say that half-carat diamonds remain a popular size for classic solitaire engagement rings.

Geoffrey Farrow, owner of Raphael, says: "There are fewer people about and those who are around are spending less. A decent one-carat diamond would currently cost upwards of £1,500.

But the smaller stones are, without doubt, much easier to sell and people are tending to go below one carat.

Stones of 0.70, 0.80 and 0.90 of a carat are popular because the price leaps once you go over one."

Farrow says the disappearance of City bonuses has had a clear impact on business: "The City boys have gone and clearly any bonuses are now going into their mortgages. The internet has also adversely affected the small outlets here. We have all had our margins squeezed – it's unbelievable."

So does the fall in demand for big diamonds mean that consumers can negotiate a good price? One jeweller, who did not wish to be named, says: "I think a lot of traders here are trying to put on a brave face and pretend things are better than they really are.

"I am struggling to sell the larger diamonds of one carat-plus. The safe is full of them – they are not shifting. Clearly there are deals to be done, but it is noticeable that no one is even asking for the larger stones."

But other traders claim that, at the very top end of the market, business is "recession-proof" with diamonds holding their own as investments.

Anthony Matthews of Quality Diamonds – which combines an internet business with a Hatton Garden showroom – says business had been brisk over Christmas: "We are regularly selling two-, three- and five-carat diamonds. Recently, for example, we sold a five-carat 'cushion' diamond for £50,000 and a three-carat for £33,000."

He says many City traders are still around, but are buying loose stones, rather than jewellery, as long-term investments.

George Katz of Katz says: "People are definitely hoping to get more for their money and things are generally a bit quieter." But sales of engagement rings at £3,000-£4,000 were holding up well, he adds.

Mersey O'Driscoll, a director of Beverly Hills, says that people who traditionally shopped in Bond Street were coming direct to Hatton Garden. "They'll do their research then come here and expect more for their money."

She says the business had not gone online because "buying an engagement ring is an emotionally charged business. It's important for the woman. It's a big thing which is not the same if you buy from the internet."

On the high street, a spokeswoman for Ernest Jones said that the most popular design for diamond rings was "understated and classic".

In a recent survey of its customers, only a minority said their priority was a big diamond – for 15% of 16- to 29-year-olds and 9% of 30 to 44-year-olds.

But London remained the area of the country where size matters most – and the bigger the stone, the better the ring.

How to cut a deal

Learn about the 4Cs - carat, colour, clarity and cut. There is plenty of information online, including www. 4csdiamonds.com.

■ Ask to see a selection of items and don't seem too keen if you plan to haggle.

■ If you have chosen a diamond with someone in mind, make sure the recipient isn't with you while you do the bargaining.

■ Shop around. Just because you have spotted the perfect diamond ring in one shop, it doesn't mean that similar items aren't available elsewhere. Make sure the first shop knows you are visiting other jewellers.


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  • ScottyN1 ScottyN1

    18 Apr 2010, 7:20AM

    So here we are, still deep in the economic mire, with uncertainty over jobs, house prices, mortgage rates and savings rates, and the Observer devotes its personal finance section to a fluffy piece on buying diamonds.

    And you wonder why your sales have fallen 23% in the past year?

  • Antecedent Antecedent

    20 Apr 2010, 11:39AM

    Diamonds are a cartel-maintained scam, of course.

    Except for those few stones that have been destroyed, every diamond that has been found and cut into a jewel still exists today and is literally in the public's hands. Some hundred million women wear diamonds, while millions of others keep them in safe-deposit boxes or strongboxes as family heirlooms. It is conservatively estimated that the public holds more than 500 million carats of gem diamonds, which is more than fifty times the number of gem diamonds produced by the diamond cartel in any given year. Since the quantity of diamonds needed for engagement rings and other jewelry each year is satisfied by the production from the world's mines, this half-billion-carat supply of diamonds must be prevented from ever being put on the market. The moment a significant portion of the public begins selling diamonds from this inventory, the price of diamonds cannot be sustained. For the diamond invention to survive, the public must be inhibited from ever parting with its diamonds.
    [...]
    The underlying assumption is that as long as the general public never sees the price of diamonds fall, it will not become nervous and begin selling its diamonds. If this huge inventory should ever reach the market, even De Beers and all the Oppenheimer resources could not prevent the price of diamonds from plummeting.

    Selling individual diamonds at a profit, even those held over long periods of time, can be surprisingly difficult.
    [...]
    In that same year, Watts, undaunted, bought another diamond, this one 1.4 carats, from a reputable London dealer. He paid £2,595. A week later, he decided to sell it. The maximum offer he received was £1,000.

    In 1976, the Dutch Consumer Association also tried to test the price appreciation of diamonds by buying a perfect diamond of over one carat in Amsterdam, holding it for eight months, and then offering it for sale to the twenty leading dealers in Amsterdam. Nineteen refused to buy it, and the twentieth dealer offered only a fraction of the purchase price.

    Selling diamonds can also be an extraordinarily frustrating experience for private individuals. In 1978, for example, a wealthy woman in New York City decided to sell back a diamond ring she had bought from Tiffany two years earlier for $100,000 and use the proceeds toward a necklace of matched pearls that she fancied. She had read about the "diamond boom" in news magazines and hoped that she might make a profit on the diamond. Instead, the sales executive explained, with what she said seemed to be a touch of embarrassment, that Tiffany had "a strict policy against repurchasing diamonds." He assured her, however, that the diamond was extremely valuable, and suggested another Fifth Avenue jewelry store. The woman went from one leading jeweler to another, attempting to sell her diamond. One store offered to swap it for another jewel, and two other jewelers offered to accept the diamond "on consignment" and pay her a percentage of what they sold it for, but none of the half-dozen jewelers she visited offered her cash for her $100,000 diamond. She finally gave up and kept the diamond.

  • Alexandria Alexandria

    20 Apr 2010, 3:07PM

    The best fake diamonds are so good now that even an expert can be fooled for a while. They are a heck of a lot cheaper and they don't have the blood of the miners and the paw-marks of international criminals all over them.

    No one has ever detected that my fake is not real. The secret is not to go for something too big - a carat or below is not likely to be doubted but huge rocks will be assumed to be fake anyway. And get it in a good plain setting - a real 1 carat diamond would not be in silver or probably even in 9 carat gold.

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