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4/3/09

Posted 4/3/09 at 6:29 PM

User's Guide

Deliverance: Your Guide to Seder at Home

Deliverance: Your Guide to Seder at Home

Photo: iStockPhoto.com

“Take a cue from our ancestors and deliver yourself from kitchen slavery,” suggests Noah’s Ark Deli on its Passover order form (sadly, the order deadline there has passed). The first seder is Wednesday evening, and New York’s abundance of Jewish delis and kosher restaurants makes it easy to be observant at home. Read our guide and place your orders.

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Posted 4/3/09 at 5:01 PM

Food TV

Meet a Pizza Monk

Vulture has procured the cool short documentary Pure and Simple, about a day in the life of Anthony Mangieri and Una Pizza Napoletana. "I kind of got lost in the idea of trying to become good at it," he says of efforts to perfect the Neapolitan pizza. Watch the short and then spend the rest of the workday thinking about that pie you're going to eat later.

Filmmakers Fabrizio Galvagno and Julia Haslett Check in With the East Village’s Pizza Czar [Vulture]

Posted 4/3/09 at 4:21 PM

What to Eat

Authentic Japanese Penny Candy at Sunrise Mart This Weekend

Just some of the unpronounceable treats available at Sunrise Mart.

Just some of the unpronounceable treats available at Sunrise Mart.Photo: Melissa Hom

In America, we grow up eating M&Ms;, candy corn, and fake cigarettes made from sugar. In Japan, penny candy is called dagashi (DAH-gash-ee), and runs the taste gamut from creamy little pots of frostinglike material to a salty rectangle of dried squid — all adorably packaged! Some Japanese candies are widespread here (Pocky, the marriage of breadstick and chocolate, or Kasugai’s spectacular fruit gummies), but classic dagashi hasn’t been — until Shin Hatakeyama, the manager of the treasure trove called Sunrise Mart, brought a few crates back last week from Tokyo. This weekend (April 4–5), he’ll be having a dagashi festival in the mart. Children under 12 will get a token (a Japanese coin, tied with ribbon) that can be redeemed for five dagashi. (Sorry, adults have to pay.) The tiny crème brûlées are very tasty, as are the Bugle-like fried things. Yes, the staff at Sunrise will translate for you (there’s no English on the packaging), but where’s the fun in that?

Related: Japanese Candy [NYM]

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The new, unmistakable Audi Q5

Introducing the new Audi Q5: Performance, luxury and functionality meet unmistakable design. With features like piercing LED lighting, a distinctive front grille and quattroŽ all-wheel drive, you no longer have to compromise when it comes to crossovers.

Posted 4/3/09 at 4:00 PM

Two for Eight

Tables Available at Tabla and the Modern; Gramercy Tavern Mostly Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked nine restaurants the best times they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Danny Meyer and Tom Colicchio.

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Posted 4/3/09 at 3:41 PM

Food Politics

Is Your Butcher a Vegetarian?

The mass-meat industry’s carbon footprint and jungle of growth hormones compels some sustainability-minded foodies to wrench meat from their diets, or at least cut back. In reverse logic, some vegetarians are channeling those concerns by opening butcher shops that sell humanely produced meat from small farms. Sasha Wizansky, founder of San Francisco’s Meatpaper magazine, tells Gourmet: “We’re experiencing a new movement of people who can stand behind the meat that they consume and support local farmers.” Those who forgo meat out of pure animal love can’t be too happy about the turncoats, and the feature already has a few comments like “This article is propaganda on behalf of those who profit from the slaughter of animals” and “there is no such thing as humanely produced meat.” Since most foodies agree the meat industry could use some enlightenment, promoting alternatives to mass slaughterhouses may be one way to do it. Hear that, PETA?

Vegetarian Butchers? [Gourmet]

Posted 4/3/09 at 3:00 PM

Best New Chefs

Best New Chefs Coda: Hangin’ With the Class of 2009

From left, Vinny Dotolo, Chrisopher Kostow, Mark Fuller, Kelly English, Jon Shook, Brian Maiden, Nate Appleman, Bryan Caswell

From left, Vinny Dotolo, Chrisopher Kostow, Mark Fuller, Kelly English, Jon Shook, Brian Maiden, Nate Appleman, Bryan CaswellPhoto: Patrick McMullan

The theme of this week was certainly Food & Wine's Best New Chefs announcement, from early speculation about the recipients to the officially sanctioned parties and other assorted aftermath. For the chefs themselves, though, it's a weeklong binge of eating, drinking, and venue-hopping. We got to hang with the chefs on Tuesday night when they came together for the first time, then caught up with them at various random moments throughout. To close out our coverage of the event, here's a recap of the week in the life of a Best New Chef — with help from honorees Naomi Pomeroy of Beast in Portland, Oregon, and Vinny Dotolo of Animal in Los Angeles.

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Posted 4/3/09 at 2:46 PM

Mazel Mazel

Getty Images
It’s an Oliver!

Mazel mazel, good things, good things to Jamie Oliver, whose wife just gave birth to their third child, Petal Blossom Rainbow Oliver (yup). Chef and mother are doing fine, as you can see all too clearly for yourself. [Jamie Oliver/Twitter, Rex Features]

Posted 4/3/09 at 1:50 PM

Recession Is Your Friend

User’s Guide: Never Spend More Than $35 for Dinner

User?s Guide: Never Spend More Than $35 for Dinner

Photo: iStockPhoto.com

Until such time as bankers start getting hefty bonuses again and, therefore, the New York restaurant economy rebounds, eating out should not be a financially onerous proposition. Here now to help you schedule your week, a day-by-day guide to eating kingly dinners for $35 per person or less.

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Posted 4/3/09 at 1:01 PM

Oenofile

Gonzo Wine Guy Uncorks Seven-Figure Book Deal

Two years ago, New York interviewed Gary Vaynerchuk, who in a year had “attracted a cult following for his unpretentious, gonzo approach to wine appreciation.” Well, the wine guy has scored a seven-figure deal with HarperStudio for ten books that will forgo sipping and distance spitting for self-help tips, reports The Wall Street Journal. Vaynerchuk has emerged as a marathon Twitterer with 145,000 followers, whom he expects will purchase his first installment, Crush It! Turn Your Passion Into Profits in a Digital World (out in September), as a "thank-you play." Will people really cough up cash for a print edition when they can get the advice for free? He sold his passion for wine pretty decisively.

Twitter's "Garyvee" Vaynerchuk Gets A Book Deal [WSJ]
Earlier: Does Your Wine Taste Like Stinky Socks Dipped in Cheese? [NYM]

Posted 4/3/09 at 12:44 PM

Stadium Eats

Stadium Previews
Stadium Previews

In case you had interests about the city's new ballparks that extend beyond the food offerings, our Joe DeLessio reconned both for the magazine. [Guide to Yankee Stadium and Citi Field]

Advertising
The new, unmistakable Audi Q5

Introducing the new Audi Q5: Performance, luxury and functionality meet unmistakable design. With features like piercing LED lighting, a distinctive front grille and quattroŽ all-wheel drive, you no longer have to compromise when it comes to crossovers.

Posted 4/3/09 at 11:42 AM

Reopenings

Patois Brings French Attitude to Little Italy

Jim Mamary and Alan Harding's French pioneer Patois closed in Carroll Gardens this January, but the owners have secured a new space in Little Italy, reports Lost City. A message posted on the former Brooklyn spot explains, “we are now open 7 days and feature the same great food and wine and are run by the same rude owners. We now have a full-bar so you can start your meal with a dirty, Ketel One martini straight up!” Lost City scoffs at unlimited mimosas now available for $12.95 during weekend brunch. (“I'm sorry, did the owners lose their sense of taste on the trip over the East River?”) South Brooklyn has more than enough classy brunch options to avoid the trek. Doesn’t he know Manhattanites clamor for drunken brunch?

Patois' "Rude Owners" Move Brooklyn Restaurant to Mulberry Street [Lost City]

Patois, 177 Mulberry St., nr. Broome St.; no phone yet

Posted 4/3/09 at 11:24 AM

Reopenings

Gowanus Yacht Club Wants You

Gowanus Yacht Club Wants You

Photo: Aileen Gallagher

The Gowanus Yacht Club, a warm-weather favorite in Carroll Gardens, is opening this weekend and inviting the whole neighborhood — provided you have a strong back. “Your participation in helping us set up is greatly appreciated,” says a sign on the fence. But not for nothing! Gowanus is offering free beers and hot dogs, a step up from Tini Wine Bar’s coffee and pastries gambit. The physical exertion starts on Saturday and Sunday at 11 a.m.

Posted 4/3/09 at 10:33 AM

Recession Not Your Friend

Only at Per Se

The Wall Street Journal digs in a bit on the trend of high-end restaurants refashioning their bars as casual dining rooms today. With Masa essentially a room available for private booking and Le Bernardin and Daniel at substantially lower price points, if anything the article shows just how expensive Per Se is, by any and all standards: "... the lounge doesn't take reservations. Diners are seated around coffee tables ... a small entrée of white polenta agnolotti in a green garlic sauce is $28 and a slab of sautéed foie gras with sunchokes and watercress is $40 — but diners can spend far less than they would on the prix fixe. ... The bar tab can add up quickly: Red wine by the glass starts at $19 and runs as high as $40." [WSJ]

Posted 4/3/09 at 10:03 AM

Openings

Brennan Developing Bar Artisanal Into ‘French Casa Mono’

Terrance "The Teflon King of Lincoln Center" Brennan sits with the 'Bag to discuss his takeover of Trigo, a move that would reveal Brennan as a genius if it works, given how disastrous the whole thing looks on paper.

'Bag: So that’s what it’s going to be? Artisanal Table?

Brennan: Not exactly. We’re calling it Bar Artisanal. Artisanal Table is more Italian — pizzas, pasta, the food of the Mediterranean. Bar Artisanal will be more Frenchified, more of a bistro. Think of it almost as a French Casa Mono ... We’ [sic] have pisadladiers — sliced potato and truffle. A tarte flambe. There’ll be a bar de fromage, lots of charcuterie, a whole burger frites section, because we know you love hamburgers. We’ll have a classy burger. A lamb burger. A burger royale. I’m still thinking about it..."


A French Casa Mono sounds reasonable enough, except for the differences between this and Batali's Irving Place restaurant in size, focus, and design. And Brennan, if he's taking suggestions, should also think about how close this grab-bag concept sounds to Trigo. Bar Artisanal is slated to open on April 20. [Feedbag]

Posted 4/3/09 at 9:44 AM

Food TV

Dennis Rodman Would Be Happy to Try to Get You Into the Waverly

On this lazy, rainy Friday, we come bearing clips. In this week's episode of Celebrity Apprentice — a surprisingly underrated show living in the dark shadow of former unwatchable seasons — has the celebrity contestants, who include Joan Rivers and Dennis Rodman, tasked with running the concierge desk at the Loews Regency Hotel on Park Avenue. Inevitably, a guest asked for a table at the Waverly Inn. See how Dennis's team fared in pulling off the impossible and then, spoiler, where Rodman worked his magic instead. You're about to shock yourself by watching this clip all the way through.

Posted 4/3/09 at 9:19 AM

Mediavore

Tropicana Redesign Cost Sales; Odessa on HBO

• People really didn't like those new Tropicana cartons. During the brief time the redesign was in stores, the line's sales fell 20 percent. [Ad Age]

• New HBO series Bored 2 Death recently filmed at Odessa. [EV Grieve]

• Healthy Choice is spending almost $100 million on a new ad campaign, including commercials starring Julia Louis-Dreyfus and directed by Christopher Guest. [NYT]

• Old-school Italian grocer Bazzini will likely close soon. [Downtown Express]

Posted 4/3/09 at 9:00 AM

The New York Diet

Table 8’s Govind Armstrong Visits Veselka and Angel’s Share

Table 8?s Govind Armstrong Visits Veselka and Angel?s Share

Photo: Melissa Hom

Buzzy newcomer chef Govind Armstrong plans to open his seasonal, regional American restaurant Table 8 (with locations in L.A. and South Beach) in the Cooper Square Hotel on May 5. We’ve been waiting for this restaurant for months, but Armstrong says the project has actually taken four years. Table 8 will have a “salt bar, similar to a charcuterie bar, where we use a lot of quick cures on fish, similar to crudo. Those items run from $3 to $5,” he says, and no listed entrée will cost more than $30. (If you want Table 8’s signature hot-roasted porterhouse for two, order it off the menu.) Since there’s still no gas in the kitchen and he’s living out of a hotel room before relocating here full-time, Armstrong eats out more than usual these days. See him discover downtown eats in this week’s New York Diet.

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4/2/09

Posted 4/2/09 at 4:47 PM

Top Chef Alumni Newsletter

More on Dave Martin’s Vynl Overhaul: New Focus on ‘Solid American’ Food

The only problem with this morning's news that Top Cheftestant Dave Martin is overhauling Vynl is that the diner wasn't ... broken. So, by way of clarification, here's some more information about what the dude's up to:

Meet the new Vynl, up next. »

Posted 4/2/09 at 4:10 PM

What to Drink Tonight

Stumptown Stout in Greenpoint
Stumptown Stout in Greenpoint

The Diamond is the lucky recipient of Brooklyn Brewery's only cask of Intensified Coffee Stout, made with (get ready!) Stumptown coffee. While it lasts, buy a twelve-ounce glass for $5. Pouring begins at 5 p.m.

Posted 4/2/09 at 4:00 PM

Two for Eight

Tables Available at Trattoria Incontro and Bussaco, the Little Owl Mostly Booked

It’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don't guarantee the results.) Today: Neighborhood Chic.

Read more »


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Daniel Maurer
Managing Editor
Jessica Coen
Associate Editor
Aileen Gallagher
Assistant Editor
Alexandra Vallis
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