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Grub Street

Edited by Josh Ozersky with Daniel Maurer

11/ 9/07

Engines of Gastronomy 

11/ 9/07

5:30 PM

Dévi's Hemant Mathur Keeps It Real With His Tandoor

No, you may not stick your hand in there.Photo: Melisssa Hom

Hemant Mathur of Dévi is the Yo-Yo Ma of tandoor cooking, a virtuoso whose instrument is the traditional clay oven. Many menu highlights come from it, from the lamb-stuffed tandoori chicken to the naan and roti breads — all of them delightfully marked by the searing heat of Mathur’s three-year-old modern clay oven.

Read more »

The Gobbler 

11/ 9/07

4:45 PM

How to Master the World of Airport Dining

It was the Gobbler’s duty, recently, to spend a sizable amount of time foraging for sustenance in the city’s major airports. We sipped yogurt smoothies at Newark International, sampled withered, entombed-looking pretzel dogs at La Guardia, nibbled hideously large Cinnabons in the company of dazed-looking Nigerian travelers at JFK. Did this grim journey lead to an expanded, almost Yoda-like knowledge on how to survive in this culinary wilderness? Absolutely! Thus, here are the Gobbler’s commandments for dining in airports:

Read more »

Two for Eight 

11/ 9/07

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Pera; Centro Vinoteca and the Red Cat Nearly Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Refined Meathead.

From BLT Prime to Trestle on Tenth. »

Neighborhood Watch 

11/ 9/07

3:30 PM

Lovescool's Bakery Open in Gramercy; Pupu Platters From the Fifties in Queens

Astoria: Chickenhead is playing at the beer garden this Saturday from 8 p.m. to midnight. [Joey in Astoria]
Clinton Hill: J & J Cafe on Fulton near Waverly is already closed, but don't hold your breath for the next newcomer. With all the construction in the area “there's little use opening anything in that space…it's almost completely invisible.” [Clinton Hill Blog]
Fresh Meadows: Old-school Chinese-American restaurant Kim Yum has been serving Pupu Platters and strong drinks since the fifties. [Gothamist]
Gramercy: Dessert blogger and Golden Scoop award winner Kelli Bernard has opened her bakery and tea house at 171 Third Avenue between 16th and 17th streets. [NewYorkology]
Harlem: Harlem Tea Room tries to pull a fast one: “This may not be a sticking point if you haven’t grown up with scones, but they are not biscuits. They just aren’t. Biscuits are lovely things, but you cannot claim to sell homemade scones and serve biscuits.” [Uptown Flavor]
West Village: Gusto chef Amanda Freitag puts oodles of autumn into her recipe for free-form pumpkin ravioli with apple-cider reduction. [Restaurant Girl]

Back of the House 

11/ 9/07

2:55 PM

Chefs Aren't Giving One Another Any Holiday Compliments

Photo: iStockphoto

With Thanksgiving rapidly approaching, there's no shortage of holiday-related content out there (and yes, we're guilty as charged). Over on Metromix, there's an interesting little survey of local chefs on all matters Thanksgiving, complete with tales of turkey disasters and tips for your leftovers. But we couldn't help but notice that when the culinary talents were asked what chef they would hire to prepare their Thanksgiving dinner, there was a distinct air of self-preservation among some:
Adam Shepard, Lunetta: "I suppose this would be a good place to talk about someone I admire, but I don’t think I would hire anybody. You cook Thanksgiving dinner yourself."

Andy D'Amico, Nice Matin and Mizza: "You want me to out somebody? I can’t do that."

David Shea, Applewood: "Myself."

To be fair, not all the chefs had a turkey-superiority complex. John Schaefer of Irving Mill would give the honors to his father-in-law, and if Park Avenue Autumn's Alex Kaketsu had to pick someone, he'd opt for Pierre Gagnaire. But your father-in-law or a Parisian legend aren't really local competition, either.

Thankful Thoughts [Metromix NY]

NewsFeed 

11/ 9/07

2:07 PM

Zeppelin Hits a Snag, Won't Open Till Later Next Year

Better change that opening date.Photo: Hulton Archive/Getty Images

Fall previews had Zeppelin, the forties-themed American brasserie from the folks behind Employees Only, opening in November or December, but we now have official word that the joint, to be located in a former speakeasy, won’t be throwing open its doors until 2008. And not early 2008 — we may be talking summer here. In the meantime, Employees Only’s annual Prohibition party is coming up soon — we plan to kill the pain of this news with some serious ladles of Prohibition punch.

Related: Employees Only to Land a Zeppelin on 9th Street, and Eventually, Macao?

Openings 

11/ 9/07

1:06 PM

First Look: Midtown's Mega Pop Burger Readies for Opening

A hamburger today… or three weeks from now, anyway.Melissa Hom

A few months ago we broke news that a massive new Pop Burger was coming to midtown. You can now start salivating: As these construction shots testify, the place is now set to open the week of November 26. Again, we’re looking at a triple-decker — a first floor, open from 11 a.m. till 4 a.m. for takeout and dining; a second-floor lounge with a private entrance, and a third floor with a bar and billiards room. (It’s Playland for bankers!) The bar areas will be open from 5 p.m. till 4 a.m. And yes, midtowners, there will be delivery. Just be ready for your co-workers to hate you with an undying passion when the smell of these things wafts into their cubes.

Related: Massive New Pop Burger Popping Up in Midtown

Another photo, coming right up. »

NewsFeed 

11/ 9/07

10:45 AM

Park Slope's New Prospect Cafe Shutters?

When a borscht hall falls in the East Village, Chowhound-addled gourmands make all kinds of sound. Yet when Park Slope's long-standing New Prospect Cafe went dark earlier this week, the normally vocal locals barely made a peep. The cozy, eclectic place opened in 1985, bringing a thoughtful menu to a nabe where, at that time, "seasonal American fare" pretty much meant an ice cream truck in the summertime. "It had a super-duper sincere, handwritten-menu homey-ness that I loved," says Death by Chick Lit author Lynn Harris Adelson, a Sloper since 1994. "They were like Park Slope's Moosewood, only with meat."

We've yet to make contact with management to get the whole story, but the founding owners have moved on to slinging their orange-glazed snapper and fennel tomato fondue in Rockland County, and the restaurant's phone has been mysteriously disconnected. Know more? Is this indeed the death of a neighborhood institution? Intel is welcome in the comments below. —Alec Appelbaum

Mediavore 

11/ 9/07

10:05 AM

Katz's Assures You They're Safe; Boulud on Buying Local

Katz's Deli denies selling out to developers and claims it would take “like $50 million” for them to sacrifice the historic deli. [Villager]
Related: Mother of Mercy! Is This the End of Katz’s?

Daniel Boulud reveals his tips for stocking a global pantry, noting that buying locally is all relative: “You drive from Vermont or you fly from California, in less than 24 hours you get it.” [The Canadian Press]

Sort out the growing food-truck scene with this list of the trendsetters including Taco Truck, Dessert Truck from a former Le Cirque pastry chef, and Wafels & Dinges Truck serving "Soft and Chewy waffles or a Light and Crispy covered in powdered sugar, Nutella, strawberries, whipped cream, or maple syrup." God bless the Belgian Ministry for Culinary Affairs. [Gridskipper]
Related: Taco Wars: Rockers Open New Front in Williamsburg

The best of mobile eats. »

Back of the House 

11/ 9/07

9:30 AM

Need Your Fix of Johnny Iuzzini News? You're in Luck!

It's Z-man's happening, and it freaks us out!

After we had some sport with Johnny Iuzzini earlier this week, the dessert master was pretty steamed — he even asked us to take him off our list. No problem, but wouldn’t you have thought we would be off his? Not so! Yesterday brought us our long-awaited issue of “See What’s Up With Johnny,” the official Johnny Iuzzini newsletter. “As usual, Johnny has been receiving quite a lot of buzz,” it assured us, going on to quote Grub Street as calling the tattooed wunderkind “the most influential dessert chef working today.”

"Johnny surely delighted everyone's senses." Indeed! »

NewsFeed 

11/ 9/07

9:00 AM

John Mayer's Diet Comes With a Side of Irony

What's he eating? Can we get a closer look?Photo: Getty Images

Pop crooner John Mayer has just started a mlog (meal log) on his blog, and he’s photographing everything he eats with the fervor of a Japanese izakaya denizen. Given that his snapshots are of things like, say, waffles, we don’t think he’s taking this seriously (though Endless Simmer is taking the endeavor seriously enough to call Mayer “the douchiest food blogger ever”). Rather, his spiel about the project smacks of playful sarcasm:
Americans are celebrity obsessed, and that obsession shows no signs of stopping … I’ve decided to make the most personal facet of my life public. My meals.

Wait, haven't we seen this somewhere before? »

11/ 8/07

Foodievents 

11/ 8/07

7:38 PM

Zac Young's Chocolate Cookie Dress Is Red-Carpet Ready

Bet you'd like a bite!Photo: Melissa Hom

Pastry chef Zac Young of Butter has teamed up with designer Nicole Romano to showcase what they consider their masterpiece: "Bakewear," a tempting — and totally edible — dress. The fashion statement will make its debut at the 10th Anniversary Chocolate Show tonight, where, among the various demonstrations and tastings, designers will unveil their chocolate-inspired looks. During last night's pre-show fitting, Young talked about how model Ashley Moss would be sporting the frock — which is made of 600 cookies — on the CBS Early Show come Friday morning: "She's gonna be outside in the freezing cold with her ta-tas getting all hard, breaking my cookies!"

And how will those cookies hold together under such conditions? »

The Annotated Dish 

11/ 8/07

5:15 PM

A Quartet of High-End Bar Treats at Grayz

Gray Kunz is one of the giants of New York gastronomy; his pioneering work in fusing global flavors made Lespinasse one of the world’s great restaurants. Today, Café Gray carries his flag in New York. His newest venture, Grayz, is a bar and lounge with a finger-food menu that emulates its Time Warner cousin in some dishes and goes its own way with others. Here are four dishes from the Grayz menu: As always, mouse over the anchor arrows to see the dish described in the chef’s own words.

"This is my signature dish that I brought over from Cafe Gray, and it needs to be just right." »

Back of the House 

11/ 8/07

4:45 PM

On His Birthday, We Look Forward to Gordo's Next Year

Gord's Gold: better luck in the next 40?Photo: Getty

Grub Street pal Gordon Ramsay turns 41 today, and the Blustering Brit has had quite a year: He was two-starred by the Times and New York, decried by his neighbors, sued by Dillon’s restaurant for ruining the place in order to save it, and even got himself a seared nut sack into the bargain. What will year 42 of the Ramsay era bring? Here’s a little timeline we’ve whipped up, courtesy of the Grub Street Oracle.

An annus horribilis? »

Two for Eight 

11/ 8/07

4:15 PM

Tables Available at 5 Ninth and Rainbow Room; River Café Nearly Booked

It’s 4:15 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Restaurants for romance.

From Annisa to Wallse. »


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Recent Posts:

Engines of Gastronomy

5:30 PM

Dévi's Hemant Mathur Keeps It Real With His Tandoor

The Gobbler

4:45 PM

How to Master the World of Airport Dining

Two for Eight

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Pera; Centro Vinoteca and the Red Cat Nearly Booked

Neighborhood Watch

3:30 PM

Lovescool's Bakery Open in Gramercy; Pupu Platters From the Fifties in Queens

Back of the House

2:55 PM

Chefs Aren't Giving One Another Any Holiday Compliments

NewsFeed

2:07 PM

Zeppelin Hits a Snag, Won't Open Till Later Next Year

Openings

1:06 PM

First Look: Midtown's Mega Pop Burger Readies for Opening

NewsFeed

10:45 AM

Park Slope's New Prospect Cafe Shutters?

Mediavore

10:05 AM

Katz's Assures You They're Safe; Boulud on Buying Local

Back of the House

9:30 AM

Need Your Fix of Johnny Iuzzini News? You're in Luck!

NewsFeed

9:00 AM

John Mayer's Diet Comes With a Side of Irony

Foodievents

7:38 PM

Zac Young's Chocolate Cookie Dress Is Red-Carpet Ready

The Annotated Dish

5:15 PM

A Quartet of High-End Bar Treats at Grayz

Back of the House

4:45 PM

On His Birthday, We Look Forward to Gordo's Next Year

Two for Eight

4:15 PM

Tables Available at 5 Ninth and Rainbow Room; River Café Nearly Booked

NewsFeed

3:45 PM

You Too Can Slave for an Established Food Personality!

Neighborhood Watch

3:00 PM

Green Greek Comes to Flatiron; Thanksgiving Eats Aplenty

NewsFeed

2:45 PM

Have White Truffles Finally Gone Too Far?

NewsFeed

2:00 PM

FR.OG Had to Choose Between Death and Didier

Back of the House

1:13 PM

Jeffrey Chodorow Still in the Steak Game With Latest Restaurant