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TRAVEL ARCHIVE:
705: Kamikochi
Nagano’s Kamikochi region shows why the Japan Alps rival their European namesake
703: Hoofing it in Paris
Enjoy an urban trek around the City of Light
701: Kurama and Kibune
Escape the hustle and flow in the hills around Japan’s ancient capital
699: Majestic Ruins
Follow the colorful Guatemalan rainforest to a pot of Mayan architectural gold
697: Hakone
Find leisure, pirate ships and “romance” just a stone’s throw from Tokyo
695: Vientiane
The remnants of French colonial history linger in Laos’ “City of the Moon”
693: Shonan
With everything from kite surfing to beach parties, the OC of Tokyo beckons
691: Alternative Stays in New York
A new breed of accommodation offers the best of hotels and apartments
689: Little Edo
Ancient Tokyo comes alive in the Chiba village of Sawara
687: Santorini’s Other Side
The volcanic island offers an unexpected glimpse of Greek life
685: Mikurajima
Swim with dolphins in a pristine wilderness
683: Madang’s Magic
Papua New Guinea’s heavenly climate and colorful mix of cultures illuminate the senses
681: Kyoto Nightlife
After a day of temples and gardens, nothing’s better than a cold one
679: Holiday in Iraq
A journey through the Kurdish north is hardly as dangerous as it seems
677: The Little Island
Escape the late-winter blues with a tropical blast from the past
675: Scenic Spirituality
Commune with religion and nature in an ancient land
673: Aoni Onsen
Return to a forgotten time at one of Honshu’s most remote getaways
671: The Golden Rock
One of Burma’s many splendid attractions hangs by a hair
669: Hida Takayama
For personal trips gentle to the soul, seek out the old-time charm of Hida Takayama
667: Vinales
Experience the vibrant colors of Cuba at this remote farming hamlet
665: Okayama
A serene stroll through history awaits at this seaside retreat
663: Cruising the Bay
Ha Long Bay offers a breath of calm away from Vietnam’s urban rush
661: Agamachi
Fox fires and bar codes help a rural Niigata town reinvent itself
659: Sulawesi
Scenic beauty and explosive rituals go hand in hand in Indonesia
657: The Okami
Twenty-five ryokan welcome international guests to Izu
655: Lijiang to Lhasa—by motorcycle
Sixteen motorcyclists cross the Roof of the World
653: Kaleidoscopic Nikko
The fabled sightseeing destination comes alive in autumn
651: Tiger’s Leap
Sipping Butter Tea with the monks of Zhongdian
649: Kawasaki Daishi
Kanto’s most impressive temple is closer than you think
647: The lawless roads of Samoa
Extreme bus driving as a way of life in the South Pacific
645: Escape to the wilderness
Return to nature on two of Japan’s most remote islands
643: Spanish Sojourn
One train pass is all you need to experience three classic cities
642: New Kyoto
Japan’s proud old capital gets a glimpse of its exciting future
639: The Watered Ruins
Soak up some royal history in Sukhothai, Thailand
637: The Washboard Coast
The faded glories of Miyazaki are ripe for rediscovery
635: Cape Tribulation
Explore Australia’s wild side on the coast north of Cairns
633: Just A Castaway
Hidden messages and burnt-out Tokyoites wash up on Okinawa’s islands
631: Big trouble in middle China
Or, how we almost froze on one of china’s sacred peaks
629: The Scalding Pools
Hell on earth can be found in Beppu, a must-visit for fans of Japanese onsen
627: Night Of The Devil Fish
The Philippine island of Malapascua is home to sand, sun—and one very strange safari
625: Storm Damage
Devastated by a volcanic eruption six years ago, the island of Miyakejima is back in business—sort of
625: Think the Ice Bar is Cool?
Try Spending a Night at the Ice Cold Ice Hotel
623: Beyond the Taj Mahal
Three cities off the beaten path reveal India’s Heart and Soul
620: Snowy Japan
Skiing and snowboarding conditions this year are close to perfection
618: Half a world away
Find out why one local expat traveled from London to Tokyo—by bicycle
617: Spectacle in the Sand
Dubai Defies Physics, Geography and Cost in Pursuit of the Cutting Edge
613: Mob Scene
At Kyoto’s Ume-yu bathhouse, the customers are young, tough... and tattooed
611: City of Sand
From crowded markets to placid mosques, Cairo’s attractions are legion
609: On the edge
Hateruma Island offers a primeval slice of sand and surf
607: Land of calm
Get a glimpse of unspoiled Asia in the lush countryside of Laos
605: Just like heaven
Nokogiri-yama in chiba is as
appealing as Nikko or Kamakura,
and just as accessible
602: Place your Bets
Macau pays its respects to history while keeping a keen eye on the future
598: Bring it on
Peak season can’t come soon enough for hotels in southern Thailand
596: Rhythm City Cuba
In the island nation’s largest port, the common language is music
594: City of Peace
Sixty years after the infamous attack, Hiroshima is a site of remembrance
592: Big sky country
Endless vistas and mysterious shrines await in rural Mongolia
590: Hidden pleasures
Kyoto’s little-visited gardens justify a trip all their own
588: Another Country
While maintaining its cultural distinction, the Basque homeland of Bayonne
offers the best of Spain and France
586: Stepping into the past
Beaches, museums—and painted ladies—await visitors in Atami
and Ito
584: Getting to the Roots of Kuala Lumpur
In quiet parks and bustling markets, Malaysia’s capital reveals its past
and future
582: The great outdoors
Shinrin Koen in Saitama offers year-round fun for space-deprived Tokyoites
580: Seoul, revisited
Ancient and modern worlds collide in the Korean capital, a city of futuristic
architecture, tranquil palaces and fiery cuisine
576: Ancient treasures
Explore untouched 900-year-old temples in Myanmar’s Bagan region
574: The High Life
Squeeze a last bit of fun out of winter in the mountains of Nagano
572: The Other Side of Cape Town
Township tours offer a vibrant glimpse of daily life in South Africa
570: White day
Yuzawa offers beginners a chance to ski before the snow melts
568: City of spice
Take a gastronomic tour through India’s food capital
566: Life Cyclist
An around-the-world biker makes a pit stop in Tokyo
564: Forest in the Clouds
Rainswept trails and lush beauty await in Costa Rica's Monteverde nature preserve
561-2: Geisha for a day
Kyoto's makeover studios offer visitors a new twist on tradition
559: Southern comfort
Indonesia’s most vibrant village replenishes heart, mind and soul
557: Show time
Nagoya is a city of potential heading into Expo 2005
555: Waterworld
Float across the watery heart of Brunei’s capital, Bandar Seri Begawan
553: Mountain dew
A retreat restores the senses in the highlands of Fukushima
551: Turquoise baths
Warm, white sand meets an ocean of blues in a remote corner of the South
Pacific
549: Sea world
A grueling 25-hour boat ride ends in the idyllic island chain of Ogasawara
547: Train spotting
The Trans-Siberian Railway is an epic journey that begins right at Japan’s
doorstep
545: In praise of slowness
Yunishigawa offers a leisurely glimpse into Japan's illustrious past
543: Block party
A guide to fun on the fringe at Hong Kong’s nightlife district of
Lan Kwai Fong
537: The middle way
Andrew McHugh embarks on a timeless pilgrimage in Tokyo’s tranquil
backyard.
533: The simple life
City slicker Matthew Reiss takes a breather along Shikoku’s Shimanto
River.
529: The lost world
In search of an ancient civilization swallowed by the sea, Carlo Niederberger
plunges into the waters off Yonaguni.
525: Nature trails
Hakkakuso in Tateyama offers a jumping-off point for cycling, swimming,
and the well-preserved charm of Japanese fishing villages. Steve Trautlein
heads to the coast.
521: High tea
Cha and music have long been Nagasaki's two great passions. Simon Rowe
hops on a tram to sample the Kyushu city's delights.
517: The hill is alive
Grab your coats and your wallets for a tour of the best of Osaka with
local boy Simon Rowe.
513: A walk in the woods
Matt Button heads to Hokkaido and revels in the serenity of Daisetsuzan
National Park.
507: Time and again
The history of Arima runs as deep as its hot springs. Stephen Mansfield
soaks up the local ambience.
503: Riverside retreat
The rustic Okayama town of Takahashi offers the casual visitor a release
from the world. Stephen Mansfield enjoys the time on his hands.
499: Tropics of interest
Urban escapees in search of a little anonymity are drawn to Ishigaki-jima.
Simon Rowe finds out why.
495: City by the sea
Once a pirate haunt, the port town of Onomichi in the Inland Sea still
houses an intriguing array of temples, and a surprising number of cats and
cat lovers. Stephen Mansfield goes exploring.
491: Easy streets
Ocean breezes, smiling faces, exotic markets, and a laid-back pace. Catherine
Pawasarat finds Japanese-style relaxation on the shores of the Noto Peninsula.
487: Into the wild
John McGee plumbs the depths and scales the heights of Tohoku's grandest
national park.
483: Green Peace
Home to Kyoto-style gardens and the Peace Museum for kamikaze, Chiran
offers a healthy dose of history and culture. Stephen Mansfield takes a walk.
479: Walk in the woods
Take a step back in time with a leisurely stroll through the forests and
towns of the Kiso Valley. Mary King sets the pace.
475: Pilgrim’s progress
Simon Rowe braves the storms and heads down to Shikoku’s “Typhoon
Ginza,” Cape Ashizuri.
471: Companions of the sea
Life in the Seto Inland Sea town of Tomo-no-Ura revolves around its fishing
industry. Stephen Mansfield experiences the salty charm.
467: Monuments to history
Once a refuge from wars, Yamaguchi has survived the blight of modern urban
development, Stephen Mansfield observes.
463: Land of the giants
Simon Rowe goes hiking on Yakushima Island, home to tropical beaches,
granite hills, and the world's oldest-and largest-cedar trees.
459: Northern exposure
Home to king crabs, towering snow sculptures and one of the country's biggest
beer companies, Sapporo is the center of life on Hokkaido. Simon Rowe hits
the city streets.
456: In from the cold
Simon Rowe and Masami Hamada fight off the winter chill in the warm waters
of Kinosaki
452: Keeping the peace
David Capel visits the quiet hamlet of Matsumoto, home to Japan's oldest existing
castle.
448: Past into present
Stephen Mansfield takes the road less traveled and turns up in the historic
samurai homestead of Obi
444: Chariots of ire
The annual Nada Fighting Festival
440: Hook, line and sinker
Summertime and the fishin' is easy-in Ichikawa village
436: Peaks and valleys
Stephen Mansfield ventures into the picturesque calderas of Kyushu's Aso-Kuju
National Park
432: Water's edge
Seto Inland Sea the place for epicures and adventurers
428: Block party
Renowned for its legendary temples and manicured gardens, Kyoto is one of
Japan's top tourist destinations
424: Honshu's holy hotels
Simon Rowe seeks serenity and a satisfying meal alongside the monks of Koya-san
420: High Art
Since its opening five years ago, a reclusive sect's stunning museum has attracted
wide international acclaim.
416: Fire and brimstone
Hot water and Japanese hell come together in Oita Prefecture
412: Snowed in
Finding peace and a warm bath in the mountains of Gunma
408: Edo elegance
Old world artisans keep tradition alive in Honshu's Kurashiki
401: Bird's eye view
Mary King mingles with the ghosts of Himeji Castle.
397:
It takes a village
Feed your spirits in Honshu's seaside town, Amanohashidate
393:
Bathing Apes
For a scenic dip with rare, furry primates and ready to primp for your pictures,
head to Jigokudani Onsen. Mary King gets in to hot water.
389: God speed
The mother of all Shinto temples, Ise Grand Shrine
385:
Hattoji
Highland hamlet
380: Nagasaki
Remembrance of things past
378: Kawagoe
From modern Tokyo to "Little Edo"
376: Tottori
Tottori's stunning landscapes
375: Kyushu
Bed and bath under the volcano
373: Ryogoku
Land of the giants
372: Osaka
Universal Studios Japan
371: Osaka
Amerika-mura: Osaka's funky town
369: Mie
Mikimoto Pearl Island
368: Takarazuka
Hyogo-ken's all women theater group
365: Kawasaki
Kawasaki's annual fertility festival
364: Aomori
A day on Fear Mountain
362: Nagano
Chill out snowboarding
361: Asuka
One foot in the grave
356: Yamanashi
Hakushu's hidden treasures
355: Waseda
Tram Trip
A streetcar named...
352/3:
Aomori
Jesus in Japan
351: Kumamoto
Under the volcano in Kyushu
350: Sado
Island
Explore the forgotten charms of Shukunegi
ISSUES
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ISSUES
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The middle way
Andrew McHugh embarks on a timeless pilgrimage in Tokyo’s
tranquil backyard.
Saitama seems an unlikely spot to experience the historical
and traditional aspects of Japan. But hidden in the hills
and forests of Chichibu are some delightfully serene temples,
34 of which make up an old pilgrimage route popular during
the Edo period with devotees of Kannon, the Buddhist deity
of compassion.
These temples offer a breathtaking escape from the bustle
of Tokyo, and can be visited on a number of leisurely day-trips.
Those feeling a little more adventurous can walk, as I did,
in the steps of ancient pilgrims from the first temple to
the last in less than a week. At 100 kilometers from start
to finish and with some moderate mountains and ridges to overcome,
it requires effort and perseverance. But nature lovers, historical
buffs, trekking enthusiasts, or those interested in temples
or Buddhism, will surely find a great deal to their liking
here.
Time travel
The tradition of pilgrimages in the Kanto area dates back
to the Kamakura period (1185-1333) with the founding of a
33-temple route beginning in Kamakura and arriving in Tokyo’s
Sensoji in Asakusa. The Chichibu Pilgrimage was established
sometime after this and rose in prestige to become, along
with the Kamakura-Tokyo and Kyoto-Nara routes, one of the
three most important Kannon Pilgrimages. These walks were
immensely popular and were undertaken by groups or individuals
seeking a divine favor or blessing.
 |
| A row of koinobori faces
Mt. Buko, Chichibu`s symbol, in the distance, while Hounji
(above), the 30th temple, peeks out of the forest |
Nowadays, there’s not quite the same interest, and on
a warm morning in May, I had the first temple to myself. Having
waded through the Ikebukuro rush-hour madness only two hours
before, I found the silent and timeless atmosphere of this
temple surreal. The main hall had intricate wooden carvings
sheltered beneath a large copper-green roof.
The building to the right housed a shop providing nokyocho
(a book for collecting temple seals). The seals include beautiful
calligraphic inscriptions painted by the monks and old-timers
who maintain each temple, so by the time travelers reach the
34th they have a valuable and very personal keepsake. With
my very own nokyocho in hand, I let go of all my stress, and
took my first steps on the long walk.
On the trail
This first day’s journey wandered through villages, farmland
and woodland, and to some pleasant temples imbued with a sense
of antiquity and serenity. The locals contributed to the peacefulness
as they slowly worked on small plots of land, taking the time
to offer friendly greetings or to chat leisurely with their
neighbors. The walk from the first temple to the second was
a fairly taxing uphill trek through fragrant cedar woods,
rewarded by a picturesque view of the valley down below. From
there until the tenth temple, the going was easy and level,
with the highlight being the popular fourth temple, known
as Kinshoji, with its more than 1,000 stone statues, one of
which is said to resemble every trekker on the route.
By the end of the first day I was able to experience some
real Chichibu hospitality when an old man who had helped me
with directions invited me to stay at his house. This was
to become my base for the next three days with his wife providing
me with breakfast, a bento and dinner every day. I was exceptionally
fortunate since it had been my intention to camp, although
there are plenty of ryokan (guest houses) along the way for
weary walkers.
 |
|
Housoji,
the 32nd temple, lies serenely on a mountaintop
|
As luck would have it, my newfound friend was also a pilgrimage
guide who outlined several points of pilgrim etiquette: Bow
once when first entering the temple grounds. Light three incense
sticks in the incense burner; these are an offering to the
souls of the ancestors. Place a small coin in the money box
and ring the gong. Bow three times, then say your prayer and
bow three times again upon finishing. Finally, bow once more
when leaving the temple grounds.
I repeated this ritual at every temple from the 11th to the
25th. Many of these are in and around Chichibu City, but from
the 22nd temple onwards, I left the city behind to climb steadily
past farms and through dense woods where countless flowers
were in full bloom, and dramatic views of Mount Buko, the
symbol of Chichibu, loomed in the background.
The 23rd temple is dedicated to music, displaying many pictures
of enka singers who come to pray for successful careers. The
25th, Kyushyoji, is particularly scenic with a small wooden
hall separated from the main building by a lake and surrounded
by leafy trees.
The third day’s leg continued through pleasant forests
and alpine pathways. Some temples were perched high in the
mountains, serviced by stone steps rising steeply through
pine woods. Others lay waiting at the bottom of cliffs, only
revealing themselves through trees after a descent. The 28th
temple stands on the site of a Yayoi period settlement (300
BCE-300 CE) near an eerie limestone cave with obscure, dripping
stalactites and flitting bats. There’s even a temple
displaying a “genuine” dragon skull.
Divine intervention
On the last day I took in the remaining two temples and a
moderately strenuous hike up Mount Happu. This hike moves
along the Fudatate Pass through a cedar forest and ends at
the last temple, which emerges from in between the trees at
the foot of the mountain.
Overcome by a sense of achievement, I stood in front of the
quiet building surrounded by greenery and reflected on the
last few days of walking. Energetic and reasonably slim trekkers
can complete the pilgrimage with the traditional ritual of
squeezing through a wet and narrow cave situated to the right
of the main building. It’s a symbolic re-birthing—a
sloughing off of one’s old self into a new life.
While the temples of Kyoto or Nara may be grander, many are
overridden with crowds and commercialism. Chichibu’s
pilgrim temples, which are still a part of the lives of the
local people, offer a quieter, more personal and authentic
experience. They also provide a chance to experience life
at a slower pace and this is perhaps the essence of the walk—a
timelessness away from the frantic pace and stress of city
life.
Getting there
The Red Arrow Express (¥750/one-way) links Seibu Ikebukuro
and Seibu Chichibu stations in approximately 1hr and 15min.
Maps and directions to the temples and details of where to
stay can be found in Sumiko Enbutsu’s guide, Chichibu:
Japan’s Hidden Treasure, published by Tuttle.
Where to stay
The Chichibu Tourist Association (www.chichibuji.gr.jp,
Japanese only) offers a comprehensive list of guesthouses
sorted by area, as well as campsites and onsen.
Photocredit: Andrew McHugh
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